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January 9, 2009 E-MAIL PRINT

Small hills, big thrills

by Brion O'Connor/

This is not a story about ski resorts. It’s about ski areas. Small ski areas, to be precise.

Today’s mega-resorts have amenities galore and the financial wherewithal to pump tons of man-made snow to ensure a pristine experience. But they don’t always have the ability to pull at our heartstrings the way small ski areas can. So when the mercury dips, nostalgia rules my winter compass. I want my girls to have memories similar to mine (minus the lace-up ski boots and bear-trap bindings). What these smaller areas lack in bells and whistles they more than make up for in character. Do they take some liberty with the slope ratings? Sure. But you’re almost guaranteed to find outstanding customer service, supportive ski school programs, shorter lift lines and a few extra bucks in your pocket at the end of the day. And that generally adds up to more smiles per ski outing.

Admittedly, it’s a shame to select only 11, leaving off such worthy hills as Ski Butternut and Bousquet in Massachusetts, Mount Abram and Camden Snow Bowl in Maine, Middlebury College Ski Bowl and Suicide Six in Vermont, and Crotched Mountain, Whaleback and The Balsams in New Hampshire. So, consider this a “starter list,” and then expand your search to other ski gems throughout the region. You won’t be disappointed.

WACHUSETT
Princeton, Mass.

Wachusett, an Algonquin Indian word meaning “Great Hill,” translates to “Great Escape” for Boston skiers. Fifty miles west of Boston, this family-run resort is one of the most accessible and versatile in the Northeast. The Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps cut the first ski trails on Wachusett Mountain in the 1930s, and the site was selected with care. The panoramic, 360-degree vistas from the summit — the state’s highest eastern point — include a nice view of Boston.

Though a small mountain, Wachusett skis big. Each of the 22 trails (covering 110 acres) has its own personality, from the expert 10th Mountain Trail (a nice tribute to the Army’s 10th Mountain Division) to the wide and quick Conifer Connection and the even-tempered Ralph’s Run. With exceptional snowmaking and groomers, conditions are super day and night (night skiing is available on 18 trails). The downside? Wachusett can get crowded, particularly on Saturdays. Plan your visit around peak “rush hour” days on weekends and holidays.

NASHOBA VALLEY
Westford, Mass.

If amenities and atmosphere can compensate for altitude, then Nashoba Valley has a winning combination. From its acclaimed after-school programs to a long-running and boisterous adult night racing league, the area best known for producing U.S. Ski Team stalwart Pam Fletcher has grown up, while not getting bigger. Just 25 miles from Beantown, Nashoba Valley is easy to get to and easy to get used to.

The 240 feet of vertical won’t induce any bouts of vertigo, but you’d be surprised how many turns you can snap off amid the evergreens on these well-maintained trails. With an uphill capacity of more than 11,000 skiers an hour, you won’t have to wait long to get back to the summit. Since Nashoba stays open every night until 10 (with 100 percent lighting coverage), chances are your legs will fatigue before the lights dim. The Outlook Restaurant, which also is open until 10, offers excellent dining and great views of the hill from atop the lodge. The snow-tubing park, first opened in 2001, has been a welcomed addition.

BRADFORD
Haverhill, Mass.

Bradford is reminiscent of a safe, family neighborhood, where kids can sow their adventurous oats while their parents relax, knowing that the youngsters are rarely out of sight. Situated on Boston’s North Shore close to the New Hampshire border, Bradford — celebrating 60 years this season — does a tremendous job with after-school programs, introducing hundreds of children to the sport every year. Plus, its 60 years of experience has helped it not only survive, but thrive.

A nice, broad hill featuring 100 percent snowmaking on 13 trails, Bradford is fully lit for night skiing (groomers smooth out the trails from 4:30-6 p.m., ensuring optimum conditions). With a variety of learning programs for both juniors and adults, Bradford is developing a reputation as a terrific “starter hill” for beginners looking to dip their toe into the sport before running off to the big slopes. And since the area stays open until 10 every night from Monday through Saturday (4:30 p.m. on Sundays), you’ll get the reps you need to improve.

BLUE HILLS
Canton, Mass.

My first encounter with the Blue Hills was on two wheels instead of two boards, but that mountain biking introduction taught me to respect the 350 feet of vertical here. You won’t find crazy chutes or intimidating steeps, but if you live near Boston, you’ll appreciate its convenience. The area has a tremendous staff that genuinely takes pride in bringing along the next generation to this sport. That means top-notch ski school and camp programs, as well as a full-service rental center.

The 60 acres of Blue Hills is wonderfully simple to navigate. From the summit chair, in addition to great views of the Boston skyline, Blue Hills offers a number of trail choices to suit any ability level, from the meandering Sonya to the spacious (but steeper) Big Blue. Want more of a challenge? Try squeezing your hips into the Chute, or sample the Infinite Terrain Park. With skiing Monday through Saturday until 9 p.m., night skiing on half the hill, snowmaking across 80 percent, and a top ticket price of $36, this enjoyable little hill will leave you feeling anything but blue.

SKI WARD
Shrewsbury, Mass.

With all the talk about the Wall Street fiasco hurting folks on Main Street, it’s nice to know there’s relief for you skiing dollar on Main Street in Shrewsbury. The highest-priced ticket at Ski Ward is $40, which seems a bargain compared to the two-hour tubing pass ($22 on weekends, $20 on weekdays). Another great deal is the 2-for-1 package on Wednesday and Saturday nights (6-9 p.m., two ski for $25 on Wednesday and $35 on Saturday).

With snowmaking blanketing 90 percent of Ski Ward’s 10 acres, conditions are generally dependable. Winters Magic gets bumped up underneath Ski Ward’s triple chair, providing an additional challenge for skiers and a diversion for spectators. The hill’s dedicated race course — called White Out — is a smooth, blue-square cruiser, while East Bowl, Nor’Easta and Richie’s Ravine are rated “difficult” but are manageable for most intermediates. Snow Day is a blue trail that skirts around these trails, if you prefer a smoother option.

JIMINY PEAK
Hancock, Mass.

Short, steep and sweet. That sums up this superb resort in the Berkshires of western Massachusetts. The “bowl” at Jiminy Peak boasts 44 trails over 170 acres of terrain (almost half are lit for night skiing) plus a true base village. Those features alone might normally bounce Jiminy Peak out of the “small” category (especially by New England standards). Now add the outstanding lift capacity — one six-passenger, high-speed summit lift, two quad chairlifts, three triple chairlifts, and one double chairlift — and the area starts to sound like your basic uber-resort. Yet, despite all its infrastructure, Jiminy Peak strikes an uncanny balance between big mountain perks and small area atmosphere. That’s a real testament to the mountain and the resort staff.

Mother Nature even appears to have jumped on the Jiminy bandwagon, with an annual snowfall of nearly 100 inches (complemented by a first-rate snowmaking system). The lift system spreads out the skiers, and the trail network truly offers something for everyone, from three diverse terrain parks, dedicated bump runs, fast, wide cruisers and smooth, gentle beginner slopes. Après ski, Jiminy’s Village Center is an all-inclusive getaway, offering accommodations, a retail shop, a 6,500-square-foot children’s center, and a variety of dining establishments.

KING PINE
East Madison, N.H.

King Pine at Purity Spring Resort, a few miles east of the outlet malls in North Conway, N.H., is an oasis of peace and quiet for families. If members of your ski clan have varying skiing and snowboarding abilities, they’ll appreciate King Pine’s 17 trails spread over 48 acres, ranging from the gentle Pokey Pine and the Slow Pokey to the double-diamond Pine Brule and Pitch Pine. Before you point the boards downhill, take a moment to take in King Pine’s stunning views to the north, overlooking Purity Lake (and the resort’s cross-country trail network) and the cozy Tohko Dome skating rink.

Three triple chairlifts keep the skiers moving up and down the hill, but don’t be surprised to find an afternoon migration away from the resort’s western runs, as the sun starts throwing long shadows early here. Shredders will love the air-inducing elements in the Twisted Pine Terrain Park along the hill’s eastern rim. Two of the resort’s most popular events — the cardboard box derby and the King Pine Splash Pond contest — are typically scheduled for late March. If you’ve enjoyed earlier visits, you don’t want to miss these fun-filled events. For more variety, the resort offers dedicated snowshoe and cross-country ski trails, the Pine Meadows Tubing Park (with its own tow), and the skating rink. You may need a trailer just to bring the additional gear.

BLACK MOUNTAIN
Jackson, N.H.

Tucked away up a steep pitch behind the quintessential New England village of Jackson is one of the Granite State’s best kept secrets — Black Mountain. This slope promotes itself as “classic New England skiing,” and it backs up the claim. For starters, at 74, Black is the state’s oldest ski hill. Its surroundings — primarily rolling farmland — appear to be pilfered straight from Mr. Peabody’s WABAC (“way back”) Machine. Plus, the design of the hill itself is a nostalgic tour de force. Instead of wide-open corduroy carpets, Black offers tight, twisting trails over 143 acres of terrain. If you take the Summit chair, you better be able to handle your boards, as there’s no escape route from the top. Instead, you’ll uncover a tree-skiing delight, with Carter Notch and Lostbo glades.

Lower on the hill, from the East Bowl triple, intermediates and beginners have a treasure trove of trails to choose from (Galloping Goose is a favorite blue, while my girls love Sugarbush and Black Beauty). Black’s southern exposure means chilly mornings but relatively balmy afternoons. True, the conditions at Black are somewhat weather dependent, and it does takes a little more effort to reach compared to other exceptional local areas, such as Cranmore and Attitash. The effort, though, is well worth the experience. An added bonus is the revitalized Whitney’s Inn, located next door.

GRANITE GORGE
Keene, N.H.

Five miles outside the college town of Keene, in New Hampshire’s southwest corner, Granite Gorge is one of the region’s newest areas, having opened five years ago. Recent investments in trails, rentals and programs, and upgrades to the snowmaking system and grooming fleet make this a “little hill that could.” The 45 acres are accessed primarily by the Pinnacle Express double chair, which doubles your entertainment value by flying over the double-black-diamond Lift Line run. From the summit, beginners have a good selection to the east, along Monadnock Half-Mile, while intermediates may want to head west, along Pinnacle and Sunset. Better skiers will likely point them straight down Main Street or Lift Line.

The hill’s north slope, with 525 feet of vertical, does a nice job of holding the natural snow it gets, and new top-to-bottom snowmaking handles the rest. Its hours are more limited than most areas, but you have to respect management’s decision to curb costs. One particularly intriguing attribute is the Pacific Yurt, a great après-ski gathering spot. The area boasts about its snow tubing park and offers a network of cross-country trails along neighboring Otter Brook.

PATS PEAK
Henniker, N.H.

About 20 minutes west of the state capital, Pats Peak has been attracting families since its 1963 opening with its gentle terrain for beginners. About half of the 22-trail ski area is rated for novices. Watch the lights of Manchester and Concord flicker during an easy cruise from the summit on Breeze, Zephry and Blast. There is plenty for blue-square lovers, such as swooping down Duster, and experts can experience the adrenaline rush of Cyclone. Tree lovers have about a half-dozen glades and the twin-tippers have Turbulence Park to jib.

The base lodges are conveniently located, making it easy for the family to regroup for lunch. Pats Peak comes alive at night, too. The area’s popular POP (pay one price) program features Saturday night (3-10 p.m.) lift tickets for $36. That includes skiing, snowboarding, rentals, quick tips and even tubing. That’s one way to knock the kids out for some restful sleep. Parents, too.

BIG ROCK
Mars Hill, Maine

Here’s proof that not all cool, compact ski areas are found close to urban centers or along well-traveled ski routes. Few motorists familiar with the legendary Route 1 — which runs the entire length of the Eastern Seaboard — have ventured this far north, above Baxter State Park and Mount Katahdin. But on this ribbon of two-lane along the edge of New Brunswick, Canada, you’ll find a series of small towns that have a poignant, Edward Hopper quality buoyed by the resiliency of those who live here. These are a proud and inviting people, and that feeling translates to this intimate little ski area in Mars Hill.

Rescued by the Maine Winter Sports Center (MWSC) in 2000, Big Rock today offers a ski experience to match its heritage. Five lifts service 28 trails and glades, and snowmaking covers 65 percent of the hill, complementing an annual snowfall of roughly 180 inches. Half the runs are lit for night skiing, or you can sample the dedicated snowshoe trails. The MWSC has certainly made its mark on Maine’s Aroostook County: Further north, in Presque Isle, is the impish Quoggy Joe ski area, and a world-class cross-country facility, the 10th Mountain Ski Center, at the northern terminus of Route 1 in Fort Kent.

Brion O’Connor writes about sports, travel and food from his home in Hamilton, Mass.