February 18, 2009 E-MAIL PRINT

When the slopes close, belly up to the bar

by Tony Chamberlain/

Whether in Aspen or North Conway, apres ski is always an adventure. (photo: Tony Chamberlain)

Whether in Aspen or North Conway, apres ski is always an adventure. (photo: Tony Chamberlain)

With more light in the sky and the snow corning up under the noonday sun, our pre-spring thoughts turn toward those leisurely hours after the lifts close down. After all, spring is all about partying, and that’s especially true in the mountains.

In my younger ski bum days in points west, I well recall how the Little Nell's bar at Aspen began blasting the tunes midday and the outdoor party would just pull folks right down off the slopes of Ajax for what, almost universally in ski country, is the rite of spring.

These days, if I prefer life a bit quieter or less hectic, I try to at least keep an eye out for the frolic of life after the boots come off, and places where the institution called après ski is taken most seriously.

Alas, the funky old Little Nell's bar was torn down years ago, replaced by a high-priced hotel that has a bar by the same name but hardly the same flavor. Think mink parkas. Also Mezzaluna and Hotel Jerome are still hot for high-priced spreads. Come to think of it, that’s all there is in Aspen.

In no particular order, here’s a sampling of some of the best après ski areas.

► In the east, Killington trumps almost all the rest, if only by the concentration of nightspots, clubs, bars and restaurants along the access road. Some of the notables go back a ways. Probably your parents met at the Wobbly Barn or Pickle Barrel. Casey’s Caboose still rumbles along, and the Long Trail Brew Pub has been with the microbrewery movement from the start.

Of course, the best things about so much nightlife are variety and competition. There’s everything along here from cheap eats to really fine dining — and prices to match the whole spectrum. Ditto the entertainment.

► A bit quieter, perhaps, but the Stowe access road between the town and the ski area is as well-worn an après ski trail as you’re likely to find. And there are some old-timers still leading the way here, such as The Matterhorn Bar, the Shed, and the Rusty Nail.

► Skiing or riding anywhere in the Mount Washington Valley, all roads eventually bring après skiers to North Conway. Once you survive the eternal traffic snarl and get out on the town, the shopping among the super chains and outlets is boundless, too many spots big and small to enumerate.

The classic spot, Horsefeathers, has had a makeover, and Maestro’s Café is still a place to kick back with the chili. From boutiques to mom and pop treasures, North Conway is just a great place to be on your feet when the ski boots come off.

► While Sugarloaf does not really have a town to poke around in, there are some excellent restaurants — One Stanley Avenue and Hug's, if you’re driving. The Bag and Gepetto's on campus, and don’t forget Seth Wescott’s barbecue place, The Rack, along the access road.

Definitely circle the April 17-19 weekend for the Loaf’s annual Reggaefest for one of the best spring parties in the East.

Outside our region, Lake Placid is always fun after hours, whether you take a turn skating on the Olympic oval or head straight for a steak and libation at R.F. McDougall's.

The Cloudspin Lounge is a good place to start, and Steinhoff's never disappoints. This is also a neat town to walk around, and despite nearly 30 years past, the area is still redolent of its Olympic glories.

As a general rule out west, choose Breckenridge over Vail, though the best choice is still Park City.

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