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March 2, 2009 E-MAIL PRINT

South of the border

by Brion O'Connor/

My father-in-law, a rugged Midwesterner with no aversion to inclement weather, once asked me what the attraction was to New England skiing, particularly those nasty outings with the wind driving the temperatures into singles digits (or worse) and the trails covered in boilerplate. My answer was straightforward and sincere: “Because the margaritas taste so much better afterward.”

I can’t explain the odd attraction between skiing and Mexican fare (especially given my Irish lineage). No more than I can deny it. All I know is that nothing warms my frostbitten appendages quicker than a piping hot bowl of quality chili, an absolute must offering for any worthy lodge. Add a finely crafted margarita (no salt, por favor), and I’m in après ski heaven. For this feature, we’re admittedly eliminating some terrific all-around restaurants, such as The Bag at Sugarloaf, the Woodstock Inn near Loon, or The Coppertop at Wachusett, that serve a few south-of-the-border items. Instead, our selection is focusing on full-blown Mexican joints, which begins and ends (in my book) with the spirit of the agave. Here’s where I like to get my fix. Some are near the slopes, and some require a short drive. All are worth a visit.

Cactus Café
Stowe, Vt.
www.cactuscafestowe.com

Stowe, one of New England’s preeminent ski destinations, always gets its share of ski-toting touristas. For years, many of those tourists would flock to Miguel’s Stowaway. The locals, meanwhile, sauntered over to the Cactus Café. And as any traveling Epicurean knows, the locals know where it’s at. Chef/owners Monique and Doehne Duckworth offer up a hefty menu littered not only with standard Tex-Mex dishes but also more inventive Southwestern cuisine, plus a sprinkling of island spice (the smoked trout appetizer, with a Caribbean mustard sauce, is fabulous). Everything is prepared with the freshest ingredients and made to order. You’ll find two dozen entrees (all less than $20), ranging from flat iron’s pork loin (with a zesty cider chipotle glaze) to smoked duck fajitas. Don’t forget the apps. The honey habanero chicken wings (a nice combo of Vermont and Yucatan) would make Rachael Ray’s eyes water. Or start with the Cactus House nachos, adorned with sirloin chili, and you may not have room for much more. Except libations. With close to three dozen brands and styles of tequila, the Cactus Café allows patrons to custom craft their own margarita to suit even the most discerning palette.

Margarita Grill
Glen, N.H.
www.margaritagrillonline.com

Whether my northern New Hampshire ski adventures take me to Black Mountain, Cranmore, Attitash, Wildcat, Tuckerman Ravine or even Bretton Woods, I always manage to find time to stop at the Margarita Grill. I don’t dawdle, either, because the parking lot is typically jammed by the time happy hour gets under way. There’s a good reason for that — this roadside eatery, with its distinctive claret paint scheme, serves up great fare, at great prices, in a great atmosphere enhanced by a great wait staff. The menu is a panoply of southwest delights, ranging from gringo, Native American, Hispanic, cowboy, chuckwagon, and Mexican, with a sampling of Creole and Cajun to boot. Two Mexican platters that really get me salivating are the seafood chimichanga (scallops, shrimp and fresh fish) and the BBQ pork chimichanga. Yeah, the latter isn’t “traditional” Mexican, but who cares? It’s delicious. Plus, it comes with the Grill’s honey rum black beans, which are, in the words of my 9-year-old, “to die for.” They also serve up a nice sangria, zesty and fruity. The one caveat here, though, is on the bar side. Never order a routine margarita. The house tequila is dreadful, and violates one of my bedrock tenets: “Life is too short to drink bad tequila.” Ask for your tequila by name (the 1800 oranges margarita is a fave!).

Gringo Harry’s
Newry, Maine
www.gringoharrys.com

With the vast amount of terrain that Sunday River offers, there’s a good chance you’ll be too spent to consider a post-ski drive, even to nearby Bethel, for your Mexican fare. Lucky for you, you’ve got Gringo Harry’s right on the mountain, at the Fall Line Condominiums. I usually cringe when I see “fine dining” and Mexican combined, but Gringo Harry’s pulls it off with an inviting, low-lit interior — starched-white table cloths, candlelight and lots of wood (the mountain biker in me even has a soft spot for the Kokopelli-infused décor) that begs for you to kick back and relax. The restaurant claims to have “the best steak on the mountain,” but I’ve never tried it, to be honest. Not that I’m allergic to red meat. It’s simply because there are so many other outstanding options. Examples? Order the conchinita pibil (a Mayan-style roasted pork surrounded by sweet potatoes and citrus ensalada) or the camarones al mojo de ajo (shrimp sautéed with lime and garlic, served with rice, beans and tortillas). The highlight of the tequila menu is my latest darling, Cazadores Anejo, which has a smoky flavor to match the rich wood décor. An added bonus is the new “family room,” providing a more casual atmosphere and helping conscientious parents avoid the dilemma of bringing rambunctious youngsters into a fine dining establishment.

Candeleros Southwestern Grill
Manchester, Vt.
www.candeleros.net

Not far from Stratton or Bromley in terms of distance, Candeleros is light years away in terms of atmosphere, replacing the stark whites of a Vermont winter with the warm earth tones of a Southwest cantina. Housed in a sturdy brick building first erected almost two centuries ago as a train stop, this Manchester hot spot has been serving same-day fresh ingredients for the past dozen years. The place reflects the eye for detail and authenticity of its owner, artist Jack Gilbert. So does the menu. There are the usual enchiladas, burritos and chimichangas (and the unusual as well, such as the tasty enchiladas de mole poblano), and a bevy of intriguing house specials, including the chile-rubbed salmon tostada and the Candeleros BBQ pork ribs (the sweet and spicy chipotle glaze is first-rate). The prices reflect chi-chi southern Vermont (most plates are right around $20 or more), but I’ll wager you hear few complaints. On the bar side, Candeleros offers not only an excellent selection but also an inventive way for the budding agave connoisseur to develop a broader palette without getting totally looped. Try one of four sets of “tequila samplers,” featuring demi-shots of fine tequilas, from silver to anejo. At $12 to $16 per sampler, they won’t break the bank, either.

Xicohtencatl Mexican Restaurant
Great Barrington, Mass.
www.xicohmexican.com

The Berkshires of western Massachusetts have a half-dozen terrific ski hills, but only a few really top-notch Mexican restaurants. Among the best is Xicohtencatl Mexican Restaurant, a stone’s throw from Butternut Basin in Great Barrington. Much easier to savor than to pronounce, Xicohtencatl (say She-Ko-Ten-Cat) boasts the exceptional offerings of Angel Espinoza Jimenez, who hails from Tiaxcala, Mexico, and considers himself part chef, part magician. You’ll understand once you try one of his creations. Xicotencatl’s menu is authentic with a capital “A,” with mouth-watering dishes such as lamb adobo (lamb chunks stewed in a blend of chipotle and guajillo chiles), huachinango a la parrilla (red snapper grilled with sea salt, garlic and epazote), and the delightful attack of the wild mushrooms (locally grown organic oyster and shiitake mushrooms sautéed in olive oil with garlic, cilantro and chipotle). The restaurant’s signature dish, however, is the camarones machos grande, succulent giant shrimp sautéed with butter, garlic and jalapenos. Pair it with one of Xicohtencatl’s marvelous margaritas — there are more than 50 top-shelf tequilas on hand — and you’ll have a feast fit for royalty.

Alburritos Mexican Restaurant
Littleton, N.H.
www.alburritos.com

Just north of Cannon Mountain on I-93, past the granite scar tissue that remains of the Old Man of the Mountain and after the highway bends west toward Vermont, is the blue-collar hamlet of Littleton. Here, on Route 18, you’ll find Alburritos Mexican Restaurant, home of the papa grande, a gigantic five-pound burrito stuffed with an assortment of cheddar cheese, pinto beans, black beans, lime cilantro rice, cooked and raw veggies, and a choice of chicken or shaved steak. However, Alburritos is all about value. In fact, the $19.99 papa grande is the only dish that costs more than $10. Bargain-hunters will love the pulled pork chimichanga ($8.75) or the black bean enchilada verde ($8.55). Protein deficient? Get the steak enchiladas (steak and grilled onions stuffed in corn tortillas, topped with salsa chili verde, all for $9.25). Vegetarian? You’ve got to try the !Que What!, with its sublime mix of spicy cooked vegetables and beans and sweet BBQ sauce ($9.95). And the best part? Alburritos is BYOB, which means you can save even more dinero by bringing your own cerveza, sangria or tequila! They’ll even let you plug in your blender to create your favorite frozen concoction!

Julio’s Cantina
Montpelier, Vt.
www.julioscantina.com

In Vermont’s capital city of Montpelier, easily accessible from I-89, is this tremendous little restaurant where no one — even those with the biggest appetites — leaves hungry. Julio’s Cantina has been wowing locals and visitors alike for the past quarter-century with a satisfying mix of Mexican and Tex-Mex offerings at the same funky downtown location, just a block away from the Statehouse. Long-time staples include the cochinita pibil (Yucatan orange pork), camarones al mojo de ajo (Mexican garlic shrimp), and the superb falda de la carne de vaca (ancho chile smoked beef brisket). Always on the lookout for inventive fish dishes, my wife rarely can resist the pineapple salmon, which we’d recommend without reservation. The margarita bar, as the name implies, features an extensive number of margaritas, and the talented staff at Julio’s can probably accommodate any request not found on the bar menu. At least I’ve never been able to stump them. Too busy to stop in? Just call ahead (they recommend a 30-minute lead time) and they’ll deliver your take-out Mexican smorgasbord right to you when you roll up (minus, of course, any alcoholic beverages).

HONORABLE MENTIONS

If you’re Boston-bound, coming down I-95 from Maine, consider Mesa Verde in Portland or Agave Mexican Bistro, with locations in Portsmouth, N.H., and Newburyport, Mass. (the latter also works if you’re motoring on Route 16 from Mount Washington Valley).

If you’re on I-495 in northern Massachusetts (maybe after a day at Ski Bradford), check out Cafe Azteca in Lawrence or Acapulco’s in Amesbury, Mass.

If your travels take you along I-89 in Vermont, check out Big Chili Republic in Colchester, Marsala Salsa in Waterbury, or The Bare Mexican Restaurant in Randolph.

Just over the border in New Hampshire, Gusanoz in Hanover is a cool hangout. On I-93, in the Queen City of Manchester, N.H., La Carreta on the Daniel Webster Highway provides a welcome respite for the road warrior.