March 3, 2009 E-MAIL PRINT

Livin' large at the Loaf

by Dave Irons/

The Loaf’s park scene is a vital piece of the resort. (photo: Sugarloaf)

The Loaf’s park scene is a vital piece of the resort. (photo: Sugarloaf)

All it takes to advertise Sugarloaf is a picture of the mountain — a picture of Maine’s second-highest peak taken from “Omigosh” corner. It’s the same view skiers approaching the resort see as they round that famous corner a few miles before the access road.

For skiers seeing it for the first time the sight is jaw-dropping.  Even though most have seen it countless times in ads and brochures, the immensity of the mountain comes as a shock. For Sugarloaf veterans it’s the beginning of an excitement that builds through booting up, catching a lift and finally standing near the summit to take in the valley below and the dramatic Bigelow range across the valley.

Unlike most New England ski mountains that are only partially visible from any one point, all of Sugarloaf comes immediately into view around that corner. From the base buildings around 1,200 feet to the snowfields that top out at 4,237 feet, all is spread before the skier. The trails streaming down the face stand out, from King Pine Bowl to the east, on westward past Ramdown, Winter’s Way (named for the founder, Kingfield storekeeper Amos Winter), the famed Narrow Gauge, and on to Tote Road, the circuitous run that allows intermediates to ski from the summit. All these and more come into view at once.

With the exception of West Mountain, all trails lead back to the base village, with lodging spread below and running up the mountain to the east. Most of the condos are ski-in ski-out, with a resort shuttle service running on a regular schedule to make it easy to access the mountain already dressed for skiing.  A combination of units right in the village and the Grand Summit Hotel provide skiing right out the door and access to a walking village with dining, shops and the spacious base lodge.

The Sugarloaf Inn, sitting a few hundred yards below the base lodge, has its own double chair to a spot just above the base lodge and adjacent to the ski school meeting place. The Snubber chair runs from a point next to the lowest parking lot and brings condo occupants up to the base area. There, they join day skiers in and around the base lodge to head for their favorite early morning runs.

On cold mornings the Whiffletree Quad is a good start, especially for beginners. East of the base area, these gentle slopes catch the early sun, and from the top of this lift it’s only a short run to the base of the King Pine Quad for advanced skiing in the sun. Other skiers grab the Double Runner chairs and slip over to Spillway to access the upper runs. Their choices are the Spillway Crosscut to ski the diamonds and double diamonds across the face, or to slide west for more favorites. On blue sky days, ride the Super Quad 1,750 vertical feet and take a short run easing west to the base of the Timberline Quad to the summit. The hotshots head for the snowfields and runs such as White Nitro, with its 51-degree pitch. If you don’t think that’s steep, imagine standing on the side of a typical ski chalet roof with its 45-degree pitch. All runs in the snowfields are double black.

More skiers swing west to Timberline, a winding green run where the views of Crocker Ridge are spectacular, taking their time before eventually dropping onto Tote Road to complete the morning warmup run. Halfway down, it might be time for a hot chocolate at Bullwinkle’s, the popular, on-mountain restaurant.

To get a feel for what the racers feel (although at much slower speeds) take Narrow Gauge Extension and follow the run that has challenged some of the World’s finest downhill racers. In 1971 a pair of World Cup downhills were held on this run, in 1985 the World Juniors raced here, and the U.S. National Alpine Championships have been held at the Loaf many times, most recently last March.

John Ritzo, headmaster at Carrabassett Valley Academy says, “The road to the US Ski Team runs down Narrow Gauge.” Follow the upper turns of the Gauge, down through the Snowbowl and over the Headwall that has spoiled victory dreams of countless racers.

While Gauge is famous, veteran Sugarloafers find challenges all across the face of the mountain. With only a few exceptions, the face is black diamond steep, gradually lessening in pitch as the skier descends the mountain. Most runs carry names from the logging industry, Bubblecuffer, Widowmaker, Double Bitter and those already mentioned along with others. A few, such as Winter’s Way, King’s Landing and Stub’s, are named for skiers important to the founding and building of Sugarloaf. If you go there, ask about these Sugarloafers.

As big and brawny as the mountain is, the “Sugarloafers” are even more important. The employees and the local skiers take a fierce pride in their mountain and know how to ski long and hard. And they play as hard as they ski.  You can join them for lunch and après ski at The Bag, Gepetto’s, the Widowmaker Lounge in the Base Lodge and the Shipyard Pub at the Inn.  Or travel a short ways down the Access Road and let Olympic snowboardcross gold medalist Seth Wescott be your host at The Rack. He might even be there if he has a break between World Cup events.

The best of Sugarloaf can be found in mid-winter, when the snow is deep and packed powder is the surface, but when the high sun of spring hits the deep snow there is no place better. With its high elevation and big vertical, spring skiing can last into May, and the party atmosphere on the “Beach” in front of the base lodge brings skiers together in  rare camaraderie. Late afternoon finds skiers relaxing there and on the upper level, on the deck behind Gepetto’s and other favorite spots. On the mountain, the deck outside Bullwinkle’s is a popular sun spot.

Evenings are meant for dining at the Loaf. Favorites include the lunch spots along with The Double Diamond in the hotel and Seasons at the Inn.

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