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November 13, 2009 E-MAIL PRINT

Slopes to suds

by Brion O'Connor/

Really, is there any better après ski ritual than hoisting a few with your friends? If I wanted a hard-core ski experience, I’d probably grab my telemark boards and head out alone into the backcountry. But skiing, for me, is all about camaraderie, and nothing epitomizes camaraderie better than a good ski bar. In New England, the après ski pub tradition nearly rivals the skiing tradition. And remember, not all four-star ski bars are found on the mountain. Here are 10 of my choice off-mountain pubs.

The Cave
Mount Washington Hotel
Bretton Woods, N.H.
www.mountwashingtonresort.com

This cozy, Prohibition-era speakeasy, tucked away in the rough-hewn stone-wall basement of one of New England’s most majestic hotels a short hop from Bretton Woods, just oozes nostalgia. Peering out the grated windows in the granite walls, you can just picture the old paddywagons driving up the long, sloping driveway back in the Roaring ’20s. Whether you’re making downhill turns at neighboring Bretton Woods, or Nordic skiing along the winding trails behind the hotel, The Cave offers a relaxing respite at day’s end. Dinner jacket not required.

The Wobbly Barn
Killington, Vt.
www.wobblybarn.com

If your legs are feeling wobbly after a hard day on the hill, bring ’em to the Wobbly Barn for a little late-afternoon adjustment. First built in 1963, this is a classic ski-and-suds joint that offers a hard-core happy hour (with free nachos!) for a hard-core ski crowd. Careful about bragging too much about your epic outing on Outer Limits or Devils Fiddle, because the chances are the guy or gal sitting beside you can ski your pants off, and is likely to challenge you to a little slopeside throw-down the next day. Which would be the only time you’ll regret spending a fun-filled evening at the Barn.

Sunday River Brew Pub
Bethel, Maine
www.sundayriverbrewpub.com

Owned by the Stone Coast Brewing Company, this big, spacious pub is a nice alternative to the on-mountain, elbow-to-elbow zaniness that you’ll find at the resort’s Foggy Goggle tavern or the Shipyard Brew Haus Restaurant (not that I’m complaining, mind you). Here, at the base of the resort’s access road, you can just stretch out a bit more, or enjoy a libation while warming your toes at the outdoor fire pit. Depending on my mood, I’m partial to the sweet Sunday River Alt or the robust Black Bear Porter. Then again, I always try to remember to ask what the seasonal offerings are.

Matterhorn
Stowe, Vt.
www.matterhornbar.com

One web reviewer wrote: “Every single night here has led to me getting far more wasted than I should’ve gotten … But it’s exactly what you’d expect from a bar in a ski town: wild, drunken debauchery.” Well, duh! Not that we’re promoting or condoning inebriation. Drinking is a lot like skiing – you’ve got to know your limitations. And while the Matterhorn may not have invented après ski, this classic bar has honed the custom. I’m not sold on the sushi and martinis, but the drinks are great (and, yes, sizeable), as are the burgers, the wood-fired pizzas, the live music, and the customers.

Red Parka Steakhouse & Pub
Glen, N.H.
www.redparkapub.com

Whether you’re skiing Attitash/Bear Peak or Black or Wildcat or Cranmore, you’re not far from the Red Parka Pub, right by the intersection of Route 16 and Route 302 in Glen. With a name gleaned from the archetypal ski patrol uniform, circa 1972, the Red Parka is synonymous with northern New Hampshire ski life. The pub takes “rustic,” with license plates (mostly ski-themed) lining the dark wood walls and popcorn and peanut shells covering the floor, and blends it seamlessly with modern, including the two 42-inch flat-screen TVs streaming ski videos. Add dozens of fresh brews, a terrific pub menu, a rollicking crowd and live entertainment, and you’ve stumbled across post-ski nirvana.

Granary Brew Pub
Farmington, Maine
www.granarybrewpub.com

Just south of Sugarloaf, right off Main Street in the college town of Farmington, is this gem of a pub. If you don’t want to pay for the trappings of some brass-and-lacquered fern bar (heck, we’re talking ski bars, after all!), the Granary will suit you to a proverbial ‘T.’ The Granary isn’t fancy, just fun, boasting a nice variety of fresh brews from Oak Pond Brewing in Skowhegan, such as Storyteller Dopplebock, the tasty Nut Brown Ale, and a smooth-but-potent IPA (9 percent). Plus, you’ve got to try the sweet potato fires with curried dipping sauce.

Wildcat Tavern
Jackson, N.H.
www.wildcattavern.com

Talk about your split personalities. Walk into the Wildcat Tavern, take a left, and you’ll find a very chi-chi, high-end restaurant that’s worth every penny you’re willing to spend on fine dining and wines. But it’s no ski bar. For that, take a right after you step through the front door, and you’ll discover a crusty little beer joint with Long Trail and other quality brews on tap, an open-mike Hoot Night on Tuesdays, and live music on the weekends. The pub menu features the kind of filling, comfort food that a spent ski hound craves. Locals love this place, and judging from my experiences, locals always know best.

Matterhorn Ski Bar
Sunday River, Maine
www.matterhornskibar.com

To swing open the heavy pine doors and step into the Matterhorn Ski Bar is to step back in time, with memorabilia ranging from vintage wooden skis to leather lace-up boots adorning the bar top, walls, ceilings and floors (I still can’t believe I actually skied in those bear-trap bindings as a youngster!). Not to be confused with the Stowe ski bar of the same name, the Matterhorn at Sunday River rivals its Vermont counterpart with a premium on authenticity. That holds true for a tremendous assortment of beverages (18 brews on tap) as well as the clientele. Few poseurs here, and those who do manage to get in typically get exposed pretty quickly. Treat yourself to the wood-fired pizza (the BBQ chicken with roasted red peppers and onions is to die for) while you’re there.

John Egan’s Big World Pub
Waitsfield, Vt.
www.bigworldvermont.com

Anyone who’s watched Egan huck one of his jaw-dropping jumps knows this freeskier likes to go big. His pub, at the intersection of Routes 100 and 17, conveys the same energy. A magnet for Sugarbush and Mad River Glen skiers, the bar features a diverse mix of bottled brews from around the world and draft offerings from Maine, Vermont, Canada and Ireland (Mmmm, Guinness!). Plus, any après ski bar that has the incomparable Samuel Smith’s Nut Brown Ale gets bonus points in my book. The food is a bit pricey, but prepared nicely.

Woodstock Inn Station & Brewery
North Woodstock, N.H.
www.woodstockinn.com

This family-friendly restaurant just west of Lincoln (and Loon Mountain) is a beehive of activity any time of year, but the buzz really kicks up a notch when the skiers flood the area during the winter months. The seasonal Wassail Ale packs a wallop (8 percent alcohol), and come spring, the Kane Country Maple Porter is a real treat. That’s not to take anything away from the everyday offerings, such as Red Rack Ale and Pig’s Ear Brown Ale. The food from an expansive menu comes in large, reasonably priced portions, too. You could say the same for the atmosphere. No one walks away from the Woodstock Inn hungry, or thirsty.