December 5, 2009 E-MAIL PRINT

Highway to ski heaven

by Brion O'Connor/

If there’s a separate heaven for skiers and boarders, I’m convinced the roads there will all look like Vermont’s Route 100. Not the soaring super highways like Interstate 70 that runs to Colorado’s Summit County and up past Vail, but this twisting north-south two-lane, littered with quintessential Vermont villages, dilapidated farmhouses, babbling brooks, wood hillsides and some of New England’s finest ski areas, restaurants and accommodations. You’ll also pass a number of ski clubhouses, some in better shape than others, that stand as a testament to the history of the sport, and the sobriquet of Route 100 as Vermont’s “Skier’s Highway.”

As a youngster growing up in northern New Jersey in the 1960s and ’70s, I longed for our winter treks to the Green Mountain State. Our clan (a robust Irish-French Canadian gang of eight) would pile into the family Ford LTD wagon and, along with our Austrian neighbors, the Aguras, motor up Route 100 to ski Sugarbush (“Mascara Mountain”) and Glen Ellen in Warren. The drive, compared to the major highways we would take to see our grandparents in New Hampshire, was almost magical. I remember feeling incredibly safe during these long road trips, with surreal snowflakes that looked like fireflies in the street lights (no doubt my dad, if he were alive today, would have a much different recollection!).

We’d come in by way of eastern New York, through Rutland, and bank north onto Route 100 by Killington. Little did I know of the treasures that Vermont 100 offers in its first 100 miles to the south, such as Mount Snow, Stratton, Magic Mountain, Bromley and Haystack (RIP, 2005). I made up for that oversight in the 1990s, during my early years as a ski writer getting reacquainted with the sport.

Today, I could spend weeks exploring Route 100 as it neatly splits Vermont into two tidy halves, running a shade more than 216 miles from Massachusetts to the Canadian border, much of it hugging the eastern slopes of the Green Mountain National Forest. With a wife and two young girls of my own, I love the idea of reconnecting with the ghosts of my own not-too-distant past.

SOUTH ROUTE 100

Some say the first 100 miles of Route 100 are the best. I’m not ready to make such a bold proclamation, but they have plenty of “talking points.” For starters, two mega-resorts — Mount Snow and Stratton — that need no introduction, two superb smaller hills in Okemo and Bromley, and a fifth hill, Magic Mountain, where you can actually buy an ownership stake. The 3,600-foot Mount Snow in West Dover is the state’s southernmost ski area, and one of its best, both on and off the mountain. It boasts 37 miles of trails (80 trails altogether) over 1,700 feet of vertical and almost 600 acres, including almost 100 acres of tree skiing, and a tubing park at Mixing Bowl. With a crazy lift capacity of more than 30,000 skiers and riders an hour, Mount Snow won’t keep you standing in line for long. On-site lodging includes the 200-room Mount Snow Grand Summit Hotel and the 100-room Snowflake Inn, plus a gaggle of condos. For on-mountain après ski, saunter over to Cuzzins, with giant picture windows to match the hearty portions. Later, go down the road to The Silo, where I happily sacrificed a few brain cells during my bachelor weekend more than 15 years ago, the Billiard Sanctuary for a little 9-ball, or the Maple Leaf Brew Pub and the Old Mill Inn in Wilmington.

Not to be outdone by its southerly neighbor, Stratton Mountain is another major resort with the goods to back up its claim of “gold-medal grooming.” Backed by the financial muscle of Canadian giant Intrawest, Stratton boasts some of the best snow conditions, terrain parks, lodging and dining in New England. Helping you get around are 14 lifts, including a high-speed base-to-summit gondola and four six-passenger lifts. And you’ll want to explore all 2,003 feet of vertical, as snowmaking blankets roughly 90 percent of the resort’s 600 acres of terrain. Stratton’s mountainside alpine village is home to a number of fun après ski options, including Grizzlies Restaurant, serving up delicious flatbreads, the Green Door Pub and the Domaine Wine Bar. The Stratton Mountain School is one of the Northeast’s premier ski academies.

Bromley, in Peru, is one of those outstanding little hills that sometimes get lost in the shadow of the bigger resorts. Don’t make that mistake. Called the “Sun Mountain,” due to its southerly exposure (bring the sunscreen), Bromley has 1,334 feet of vertical and 45 trails divided equally between beginner, intermediate and expert, plus three terrain parks that offer something for everyone. That’s no cliché, but it is the main reason my family loves this mountain. Same goes for the lodge. Off-hours, we can’t come to Peru without a visit to Johnny Seesaw’s (see the Après Ski story on Fine Dining), while the Bromley View Inn, with its llamas and Labrador retrievers, provides an outstanding overnight stay.

Magic Mountain in Londonderry is offering something rather unique to fans this winter: ownership. This classic Vermont ski hill has 40 trails over 135 acres and 1,700 feet of vertical, which means you’re investing in your own upward mobility. Starting this past summer, the area made shares available to join the Magic Co-op, the second ski area in the States to go co-op. But even if you opt not to go the ownership route, you’ll love stepping back in time at Magic. If you finish the day with a big red-meat hankering (as I often do, for protein replenishment), head over to the Mill Tavern at the corner of Routes 100 and 11 for some serious steak. Check out the Taylor Farm in Londonderry for sleigh rides. And if your travels take you north along Route 100, be sure to stop at the Vermont Country Store in Weston for an unequaled collection of rare treats and pure kitsch (and home to the Bryant House Restaurant).

Over the past quarter-century, the Mueller family has transformed Okemo in Ludlow from a quaint-but-vanilla hill into a stunning four-season resort, with a premium on learn-to-ski programs, snowmaking and grooming. With six terrain parks and a superpipe, almost 650 acres of terrain spread over a 2,200 vertical drop (90 percent of which is covered by the resort’s superlative snowmaking crew), and 19 lifts to get you back up the mountain quickly, Okemo will make sure you’ll get a full day of turns. Afterward, rest easy at the Jackson Gore Inn, which combines the allure of a Vermont country inn with the refinement of an upscale hotel. For libations, retreat to the Coleman Brook Tavern at the resort, The Loft on the access road, or the Long Trail Brewery nearby on Route 4. Harry’s Café in Mount Holly also is well worth the short drive.

Bear Creek Mountain Club in Plymouth merits a mention, since it is on Route 100, but as a “semi-private” club its exclusivity prevents it from being a real skier-friendly mountain, in my humble opinion. Built on the former Round Top ski area, Bear Creek offers pricey memberships ($9,000 lifetime, or $13,500 joint) that ensure fewer crowds (whether you want to hang out with these people is your call). If the members don’t snap up all the tickets, the surplus is released to the general public (at $75 a pop), and you can pretend you’re Ivana or Donald Trump for a day.

MIDDLE ROUTE 100

This 58-mile section of Route 100 between Killington and I-89 always will have a cherished place in my heart, since it’s woven into the fabric of my youth, and few memories are more powerful than that (including memories of my aforementioned bachelor weekend, which are shaky at best).

At the intersections of Route 100 and 4 is Killington, the Beast of the East. This massive resort is New England’s largest (or, as my daughters like to say, “gi-normous”), with character and reputation to match its endless terrain possibilities. The place is flat- out scary, but in a good way. Start with the 3,050 feet of vertical, encompassing five terrain parks and 141 trails (with a hefty 39 percent earmarked for experts) over more than 750 skiable acres. Then add 22 lifts, with an uphill capacity of more than 37,000 riders an hour, and a 17-vehicle grooming fleet that spruces up between 50 and 80 percent of the resort’s terrain each night. Gi-normous indeed. Après ski presents the same dilemma — too many choices. The good news is you really can’t go wrong, whether you choose Mahagony Ridge at the base lodge or meander down the four-mile access road to the Wobbly Barn, the Pickle Barrel, Charity’s, or Mogul’s (leave the car parked; local free shuttles will get you back to your room).

Next door, Pico may not have the same eye-popping stats as its big brother, but it’s got a rich history that few ski areas can match. It first opened as Pico Peak in 1937, on Thanksgiving, with the 2½-mile Sunset Schuss Trail, and held its first race the following January. Its race history glitters, with such luminaries as Andrea Mead Lawrence and Suzy Chaffee calling Pico home. Today, thanks in part to its partnership with Killington, Pico is a “big mountain” in its own right, with 1,967 feet of vertical spread over 50 trails (totaling 17 miles) and 214 skiable acres serviced by six lifts, including two high-speed quads. And everything, from the glades to mogul runs to groomed steeps, funnels back to the main lodge, where the warming flames of a giant stone fireplace await.

As you continue north along the Tweed River, treat yourself to a quick stop at the General Store in Pittsfield, lovingly restored by Courtney and Joe Desena, who also own the Riverside Farm Inn. On the northern edge of Pittsfield is the Amee Farm Inn, another beautifully renovated old barn offering sumptuous accommodations. Pittsfield also is home to Peak Adventures, which hosts the annual snowshoe marathon every March.

In Warren, my old stomping ground, Sugarbush and Glen Ellen still rule the roost, though they hardly resemble the mountains of my youth. In fact, Sugarbush has absorbed Glen Ellen, which is now known as Mount Ellen. Combined, they offer arguably the best skiing experience in New England, with an amazing array of trails spread over 2,650 feet of vertical (more than 500 acres) and 17 lifts, including five high-speed quads, capable of hauling more than 24,000 skiers up the hill every hour. That translates to fewer crowds (however, don’t plan on skiing both in the same day; you’re much better off planning to spend a full day at each and avoiding the connecting lift). The 4,083-foot Mount Ellen still offers a compelling mix of gentle and tough, tough lines, while the peaks of Sugarbush to the south have more variety. Kudos are also apropos, as Sugarbush puts the “green” in Green Mountains with a bevy of environmentally cognizant programs to complement an impressive snowmaking and grooming operation. For dining options, Timbers is the centerpiece of the new Lincoln Peak Village, while the new Gate House is home to the renovated Castlerock Pub. Terra Rosa (Mediterranean) and Miquels’ Stowe Away (Mexican) also get a thumb’s-up.

Conversely, Mad River Glen on Route 117, just a few miles west off of Route 100, is happily stuck in a time warp. Skiers here like it that way. Perhaps the only ski-related bumper sticker — “Mad River Glen: Ski It If You Can” — to rival Sugarloaf stickers in the Greater Boston area, it speaks to the mountain’s burly, no-frills attitude. You won’t find snowboarders on General Stark Mountain, but it’s a telemark haven. That tells you all you need to know about this rough-cut area and the Mad River Glen co-operative that has asserted its independence since 1995, nurturing the vision of founder Roland Palmedo. Mad River Glen first unveiled its famous Single Chair on Dec. 11, 1948, and that spirit of Yankee innovation not only survives today but thrives. There are 45 marked trails over 2,037 feet of vertical, plus 800 acres of boundary-to-boundary off-piste access. Contrary to popular belief, there is a decent amount of beginner and intermediate terrain, though the expert terrain is what Mad River Glen is best known for.

In Waitsfield, on the banks of the Mad River (so named because it flows north), famished skiers and boarders from Sugarbush and Mad River Glen have a terrific variety of après ski selections, including American Flatbread, John Egan’s Big World Pub, the LocalFolk Smokehouse and The Hydeaway (on Route 117). If you have time, as you head north, spend some time in Waterbury at The Alchemist or Waterbury Wings. For dessert, skip across I-89 to the Ben & Jerry’s factory, where you can tour the famous ice cream plant and sample the treats.

NORTH ROUTE 100

Just up the road from Ben & Jerry’s is the Stowe Hollow covered bridge, built in 1844, which leads to the “Ski Capital of the East.” This world-class four-season destination has earned its moniker: It is the original ski resort, and by many standards, still the ultimate New England ski town. Stowe’s original front four — National, Goat, Starr, and the Nose Dive — still get my blood pumping like few trails can. And they’re just the beginning. From the 4,395-foot summit, explore almost 500 acres of mixed terrain over the 2,360 feet of vertical (116 trails in all, totaling 40 miles). But long gone are the old clunky trails and outdated lodges. The upgrades have come in droves of late, highlighted this year by a new inter-mountain transfer lift, new trails, a new beginner area, two new high-speed detachable quads and new fully automated snowmaking on Spruce Peak. There’s also the new Stowe Mountain Lodge, complete with a top-flight spa and wellness center, which is the first mountainside luxury hotel to debut in the East in more than 50 years. Après ski at Stowe enjoys a similar status, and you can get your fill at the Sunset Grille, Coslin’s Pub at the Stowehof, or the Rusty Nail, the Mattherhorn, and Lady’s Invited, all on Stowe Mountain Road. If time allows, treat the clan to a dogsled ride with Peace Pups Dogsledding.

The final stretch of the Skier’s Highway, meandering 55 miles north from Stowe to the border town of Newport, is special because it requires more effort to get to, and as such tends to draw a more dedicated ski crowd (I’ve always felt that the farther you can get from New York City, the better).

Smugglers’ Notch in Jeffersonville made its name as a “family friendly resort.” Now that it’s perfected the family ski vacation, it’s branching out, with a flurry of new trail construction that will keep expert skiers on their toes. The resort’s twin peaks boast a tremendous mix of trails, from cruisers to expert, including the East’s only triple black diamond. There are 78 trails in all and roughly 1,000 acres of terrain, including glades. You’ll think there are just as many programs for the kids, highlighted by Smugglers’ SnowSports University. Post-ski activities include a FunZone recreation center, tubing, snowmobiling, ice-skating and airboarding. For a little rest and relaxation, look to the Mountain Massage Center or the Smugglers’ Notch Inn & Tavern.

Since Route 100 ends near the Canadian border, it’s only right to spotlight a ski area that’s as popular in Montreal as it is in Boston. Jay Peak, home to the famous aerial tram, is a skier’s hill, pure and simple. Big and cold, with more natural snow than any Northeast ski area, Jay is at the top of the Vermont ski chain, figuratively and literally. It has a genuine old-world, old-school atmosphere that simply can’t be manufactured. Fifty miles of trails and almost 400 acres of terrain (plus more than 100 more for off-piste carving) over 2,153 feet of vertical make Jay a veritable winter wonderland. Add more than 350 inches in annual snowfall, and you won’t think you’re in northern Vermont; you’ll think you’re in heaven. Après ski, join friends — new and old — at the Inglenook Lodge, the Golden Eagle Sports Bar, or the brand new Tram Haus Lodge (expected to open on Christmas). For an off-mountain retreat, check out The Belfry in nearby Montgomery.

In truth, no matter your idea of the perfect resort, you’re likely to discover it somewhere along the Skier’s Highway. Each area is unique, but all capture the spirit of New England skiing. And that’s what keeps us coming back to the mountains of Vermont’s Route 100.

For more details on the offerings of Vermont’s Route 100, check out skivermont.com. Special thanks to Jen Butson of Ski Vermont for her assistance with this story.

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