December 23, 2009 E-MAIL PRINT

Stowe's serene escape

by Brion O'Connor/

One of the reasons Stowe is arguably the ski capital of the East is that it offers visitors almost every imaginable amenity, both on the mountain and off. It's also got the crowds, which is to be expected (and, if you're a Stowe-area businessman, a blessing). For most, the crowds are simply accepted as part of the admission price. After all, we're all adding to that density. Still, if you're patient, and persistent, you can find refuge from the masses in a serene, snow-covered oasis tucked away on the summit of Mount Mansfield.

The Stowe Stone Hut is a skier's dream, a no-frills, ski-in, ski-out cottage situated conveniently by some of Northeast's best trails. If the snow if falling, the hut can look like the quintessential Vermont diorama, with plumes of smoke from the wood stove swirling among the flakes, and the lights from within a welcoming beacon. On a crisp, moonlit night, the hut is a dazzling New England portrait, with ghostly shadows serving as a testament to the benevolent spirits that roam here.

"When I go up to the hut, I always reminisce about the early ski pioneers, guys like Charlie Ward and others," park ranger Aaron Jacobs said. "It's a special place."

Indeed, the single-room cabin is as historically significant as it is special, first built in 1936 as a warming hut by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the same crews that cut the original ski trails on Mount Mansfield. A dozen years ago, the Stone Hut was renovated and is now fully insulated (thought still without electricity). The wood stove, tucked neatly into the old stone fireplace, provides plenty of warmth for the folks lucky enough to call the hut home for a night (or longer), even if the late afternoon winds pick up and the mercury plummets below zero.

Unfortunately, like so many popular Stowe-area après ski clubs, there is a crowd waiting to get in today. The Stone Hut already is booked solid for this winter, with more than 150 names on the waiting list, Jacobs said. A more reasonable game plan is to take a few minutes and check the hut out when you visit Stowe this season, and then make a point to mark your 2010 calendar for Labor Day as a reminder. Sign-ups for the hut start with a blank slate every year and are distributed lottery-style beginning Sept. 15. The best game plan is to request a long stay (dates outside the more popular times of weekends and school vacations are recommended; super savvy planners will check out the Farmer's Almanac to see when storms are expected). Be sure to request several alternative dates on the application. Payment is required up front and cashed when the dates are assigned. There are no refunds.

Still, it's worth the gamble, as the Stone Hut provides a unique opportunity to combine nostalgic charm and soul-nourishing solitude with all the perks of modern-day, lift-service skiing. Here's what you're signing up for. The cost is $150 per night for the entire hut, regardless of whether the number of guests totals one, two or a dozen (the maximum allowed). The hut sleeps all 12 comfortably in bunks. Restrooms, water and a courtesy phone are located in the Octagon near the hut. But don't mistake this for your typical slopeside accommodation — the Stone Hut still is winter camping, with all the requisite responsibilities: Pack in, pack out and leave no trace. But, as winter campers will tell you, the hut's isolation provides the perfect antidote for our busy word-a-day lives. You'll discover how this peaceful, rough-cut cabin can inspire like few places can (not surprisingly, there have been several marriage proposals attributed to the locale, according to Jacobs).

There are endless opportunities for stove-side chats and card games, midnight snowshoe romps, snowball fights, and star-gazing. Early risers may want to greet the new day with a quick hike up to the summit, where they can enjoy jaw-dropping views is every direction. But perhaps the best reason of all to reserve a spot at the Stone Hut? "First tracks," Jacobs said with a wry grin.

Really, what could be more ideal than early morning turns before the lifts start cranking, especially if you're lucky enough to have the hut during a nighttime snowfall? The bounty is almost embarrassing, including Upper Nosedive, Upper Goat, Upper Liftline and Bypass for the Black Diamond set, and Upper Lord, Ridge View and Toll Road for cruising runs. Life for a skier or snowboarder simply doesn't get much better.

There are two options to get to Stowe's Stone Hut. If you want to really adhere to an Old School philosophy, you can brace yourself for an invigorating-but-taxing hike 2,000 vertical feet up Mount Mansfield. Most in-season guests opt to ride Stowe's FourRunner Quad (the resort offers single-ride tickets), which brings you practically to the hut's doorstep. Guests must bring their own food and beverages, cookware and lighting (non-flame), and sleeping bags, not to mention other "necessities" such as an Ipod or MP3 player with portable speakers, toiletries, and camera. The stove can be used for cooking, though Jacobs recommends bringing a camp stove to prevent the hut from turning into a sauna. Just remember, if you take the lift, everything must fit on your lap. Rest assured, that's a minor inconvenience.

For more details on Stowe's Stone Hut, call 802-253-4010. Reservation request forms and information for next season are at the Vermont State Parks web site (vtstateparks.com).

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