January 2, 2010 E-MAIL PRINT

Unwind in the water

by Brion O'Connor/

Stowe Mountain Lodge provides a memorable setting for its outdoor pool and Jacuzzis.

Stowe Mountain Lodge provides a memorable setting for its outdoor pool and Jacuzzis.

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Music may sooth the savage breast, but water soothes the ravaged skier. Granted, some skiers and boarders get amped after a day on the hill and ride that adrenaline surge to the nearest — or liveliest — après ski bar. Heck, that’s what I used to do. Still, even well before I passed my personal half-century mark, I was learning to enjoy the subtle pleasures of slipping out of my ski gear, slipping into a pair of swim trunks, and sliding into a nice heated pool or whirlpool. The rejuvenating properties of water, whether it’s back-to-the-womb relaxation or a few vigorous laps to purge the day’s lactic acid, can be found at almost any resort. Knowing that “pool” means different things to different people, we’ve selected an eclectic mix, some on-mountain, some off-site, some traditional lap pools, some spa-quality oases.

Might as well start with a personal favorite. Après ski is social hour at the Sugarloaf Sports and Fitness Center (sugarloaf.com), found a few yards below all the après zaniness at the village at Sugarloaf in Carrabasset Valley. The center’s large, cozy hot tub can accommodate a crowd and is located right alongside the Birches Slope and underneath the Snubber chair (both of which access a number of the resort’s condos), which means the banter is fairly non-stop between tubbers and hot-tub wannabes. The center’s heated pool is just on the other side of the glass wall, so there’s an element of Swedish hot-tubbing involved as you dash from one side to the other.

Opulence, thy name is Stowflake (stowflake.com). This year-round luxury resort in Stowe, Vt., offers an indoor pool and Jacuzzi, but it’s the 50,000-square-foot spa, with its aqua solarium, that really will grab your attention. The spa’s Bingham Hydrotherapy Waterfalls offers therapeutic hydro massage via a 12-foot waterfall, while the Hungarian Mineral Soaking Pool is a therapeutic European-style mineral soaking pool featuring mineral salts from ­— where else? — Hungary. Don’t mind those visions of Margaret Hamilton — “I’m melting!” — floating through your head.

Though it requires a short drive from Bretton Woods, the history and tradition of the indoor pool at the Mount Washington Hotel & Resort (mountwashingtonresort.com) in northern New Hampshire make it one of my family’s choice aquatic retreats. My wife and I can soak in the adjoining whirlpool until our legs are the consistency of overcooked spaghetti, while our daughters play in the column-lined pool that dates back a century. The new heated outdoor pool and whirlpool (with heated walkway), adjacent to the resort’s gleaming new spa, is a terrific addition to Mount Washington’s startling menu of amenities, with more room to stretch out but not quite the same character and charm.

The pool at the Killington Grand Resort Hotel (killington.com) got a major facelift this past spring, and guests this season are the beneficiaries. This large, heated outdoor escape (maintained between 88 and 92 degrees) also has two good-sized hot tubs attached that will help untie those knots in your lower back. Even better, this haven typically stays open late — until about 9:45 or so — so there’s no need to rush once your day on the slopes wraps up.

The Mountain Club at Loon (mtnclub.com) in Lincoln, N.H., is another ideal slopeside retreat for weary skiers, with spa, health club, and terrific restaurants, but the glass-encased pool and the outdoor hot tub are the highlights. If you’re up on the hill early, and spent by mid-afternoon, there’s no better place to kick back and relax while watching the late-afternoon skiers and boarders skidding into Loon’s main base area.

The full-service Grand Summit Resort Hotel and Jordan Grand Resort Hotel at Sunday River (sundayriver.com) outside Bethel, Maine, each have beautifully styled, heated outdoor pools and hot tubs with super-convenient indoor/outdoor access. And since they’re situated right on the trails, you could even take a lunch break, letting the hot tub work its magic and re-energize you for an afternoon session on the slopes. Just don’t fall into the nap trap; you don’t want to miss your afternoon runs.

Up in Warren, Vt., Clay Brook at Sugarbush (sugarbush.com) has a sweet heated pool and a pair of hot tubs that are only a snowball’s throw away from a lively après ski scene. The only downside, of course, is that all those après activities just might distract you from the other amenities found at Clay Brook, such as the 24-hour fitness room (complete with state-of-the-art equipment, including treadmills, elliptical trainers and a Bowflex weight machine) and access to the Sugarbush Health & Racquet Club. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Skiers from Wildcat, Black Mountain, and Cranmore can buy a day pass to the Cranmore Family Fitness Center (cranmorefitness.com) in North Conway for $12 and use its indoor swimming pool and Jacuzzi. The fitness center also offers several aquatic classes, such as Body Renew Water Aerobics and private swim lessons. Just up the road on Route 302 in Bartlett, the Attitash Grand Summit Hotel (attitash.com) indulges guests with heated outdoor pools and spas, not to mention steam rooms and saunas, at the resort’s fitness center.

Poolside views don’t get any better than those found at the Stowe Mountain Lodge (stowemountainlodge.com). The heated pool (complete with indoor access) is set in a private area just off the lodge and features stunning stonework. But the real star of the show is Mother Nature and the views of her handiwork at Mount Mansfield and overhead. Two adjacent Jacuzzis, maintained at a steamy 102 degrees, are guaranteed to wash away any lingering stress or soreness from a day banging out turns on the Stowe’s original front four.

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