January 5, 2010 E-MAIL PRINT

Home away from home

The Spruce Camp Base Lodge at Stowe opened last year, replacing the giant yurts with a much more accommodating setup. (photo: Dave Schmidt/Stowe Mountain Resort)

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The venerable ski lodge has changed considerably during the 40-plus years that I’ve been heading to the hills. Just like my old lace-up boots and bear-trap bindings have given way to buckles and step-in bindings, not to mention my quiver of snowboards and shaped skis, the ski lodge has adapted to the times and technology. For some resorts, that meant bigger and bigger structures, and, sadly, character was sometimes lost in the process. For others, the base lodge was redesigned to accentuate service and convenience. The best, though, manage to expand amenities without losing atmosphere, blending new amenities with nostalgia. And while “atmosphere” is admittedly very subjective, I’ll go out on a limb to say you won’t mind parking your ski bag at any of these lodges.

VERMONT

Upstate, the 57-suite Tram Haus Lodge at Jay Peak (jaypeak.com), which just opened in December, is not your grandfather’s base lodge. Offering a mix of studio, one- and two-bedroom units, each with fireplace, flat-screen televisions, full kitchens, decks and sweeping mountain and valley views, the Tram Haus Lodge also will feature a new bar and restaurant with seating for up to 180, a fitness center, a coffee shop and bakery, and a retail store. While all that sounds like a stretch for any definition of a traditional ski lodge, the Tram Haus was designed around skiers and riders, with lockers only steps from the slopes, good coffee, easy access to equipment repair and demo, and plenty of in-room storage.

If you haven’t been to Stowe Mountain Resort (stowe.com) recently, you won’t be able to ignore the development of the sprawling 35-acre village at Spruce Peak, which includes the slopeside Stowe Mountain Lodge. The Spruce Camp Lodge, which opened last year, replaces the giant yurts that offered skiers and riders less-than-ideal refuge for years. The new lodge features stone fireplaces, sun decks, plush restaurants and bars (we love the open, wood-framed dining room), and rental shops. The design, with liberal use of natural woods and earth tones, is inspired. The atmosphere is unparalleled.

The superlative Gate House Base Lodge at Sugarbush (sugarbush.com) in Warren, which opened in 2006, is enormous at 23,000 square feet, but incredibly easy to navigate, making it as easy on the brain as it is on the eyes. Relax with friends and family in the spacious food court, with its vaulted ceilings and diverse menu, or head downstairs, where the new Castlerock Pub serves up lunch and après ski fare every day, plus live music and sporting events on multiple high-definition TVs. Think it can’t get any better? Check out the outdoor heated patio on those mail-order spring days, and take in the views of Lincoln Peak.

The Sherburne Base Lodge at Burke Mountain (skiburke.com) in the Northeast Kingdom is a triple-decker delight. The third floor boasts the Tamarack Grill, a terrific bistro and bar with excellent food, live music, and views of Willoughby Gap. The lodge also houses the Kingdom Café, which is open seven days a week during ski season for breakfast and lunch. At the opposite end of the state, to the south, the main base lodge at Stratton Mountain (Stratton.com) is another multi-floored lodge that is as inviting as it is convenient. Warm red hues tie together all three floors, which include a cafeteria, café, restaurant, and bar (overlooking the slopes).

MAINE

The spectacular post-and-beam base lodge at Saddleback (saddlebackmaine.com) in the Rangely Lakes region of Vacationland is one of the finest additions of recent vintage (completed in 2003) to the great tradition of fine New England ski lodges. Under a single roof, you’ll find an espresso bar, a day care, a food court with hot and cold entrees, the award-winning Swig-N-Smelt pub (with jaw-dropping views of the lakes), a fieldstone fireplace with a real wood fire (don’t laugh, that’s getting more rare), complete concierge service, a ski and snowboard school retail shop, a rental shop, even wireless internet connection. Whew!

Though not much to look at and a bit long in the tooth, the base lodge at Sugarloaf in Carrabasset Valley (sugarloaf.com) makes up for whatever it lacks in accoutrements with a personal warmth, hospitality and energy that few can match. The location is stellar (especially come Reggae Festival time), with a large deck that opens out to the Northeast’s best mountain view. The King Pine Room always is a super place to catch surprisingly good live musical performances (such as Grace Potter and The Nocturnals in March), while the Widowmaker Lounge is simply one of New England’s finest après ski bars. Plus, Sugarloaf’s base lodge is pretty much one-stop shopping for any skier or ’boarder, from ticket sales to hot cocoa runs.

NEW HAMPSHIRE

The base lodge at the Bretton Woods ski area (brettonwoods.com) may be the Granite State’s finest, offering a full slate of modern services without sacrificing a great ski atmosphere. In the past 10 years, the lodge has undergone several renovations, all for the better. Looking for a bite? Choose from the Slopeside Restaurant & Pub, the Fireside Bar and Lucy Crawford’s Food Court (the Slopeside Pub also features live music for après ski fun, while the Learning Center next door hosts après ski parties for kids). The Mount Washington Resort up the road likes to bill itself as an extension of the Bretton Woods base lodge, but we are never in a rush to leave.

The Elmwood Lodge at Ragged Mountain in Danbury (raggedmountainresort.com) boasts an old barn motif, which is admittedly a little misleading, because you won’t feel like you’re part of the cattle drive that happens at some resorts. Instead, you’ll find plenty of elbow room and a more relaxed setting. Loyal skiers may not be able to tell you that Ragged’s new owners (RMR-Pacific, LLC, bought the resort in 2007) have invested more than $3 million in the resort, which included lodge renovations, but I’ll wager that they’ll let you know about the new brick-oven pizzeria and tavern located at Elmwood.

Cannon Mountain (cannonmt.com) always has enjoyed a sturdy reputation as a classic among long-time skiers, even if the venerable Peabody Lodge was a bit on the Spartan side. Well, not any more. The old lodge has a new look, and there’s considerably more space in which to stretch out. There’s a new 3,200-square-foot rental and repair facility, a new 3,200-square-foot family room (doubling the previous space), and a new 2,800-square-foot pub (which also adds 1,600 feet to the lodge’s main room). Those additions ought to help keep everyone happy.

Proving you don’t have to be a big resort to have a great lodge, Pats Peak (patspeak.com) in the college town of Henniker, has a welcoming main base lodge that houses two outstanding eateries, the Tradewinds Café downstairs (you have to try the chili!) and the Sled Pub upstairs. Likewise, the stunning McLane Family Lodge at the tiny Dartmouth Skiway (dartmouth.edu/~skiway) gets big points for its beautiful raw timber construction, high cathedral ceilings and stellar views of the ski area’s two hills. This is truly a gem along New Hampshire’s western border.

MASSACHUSETTS

South of the Vermont/New Hampshire border, Jiminy Peak in Hancock (jiminypeak.com) and Wachusett Mountain in Princeton (wachusett.com) are the class of the Commonwealth. Jiminy Peak, in the Berkshires, has the polish of a more modern resort compared to many western Massachusetts areas, but J.J.’s Lodge (named after longtime financial officer John J. Filiault) is warm and inviting, despite a near constant buzz of activity. The mini-bars at strategic locations are a tempting treat, as is the outdoor deck. At Wachusett, located much closer to Boston, the main lodge befits a commuter mountain. Namely, you’ll find a raft of skier services, such as the Mountainside Ski & Sports Shop. What might surprise you is that you’ll also find a lodge with superb architectural design, accentuating a comfortable atmosphere with exposed beam construction, a huge fireplace and sun decks surrounding the building. The massive, 38,000-square-foot structure also includes a two-story addition (opened in 2001) featuring the Coppertop Lounge, the Black Diamond Restaurant and deluxe Mountain Suites.

CONNECTICUT

Another new addition to the ski lodge tradition can be found at Woodbury Ski Area (woodburyskiarea.com), which is opening its doors this season with a new full-service, wood-shingled base lodge, located at the area’s tubing park. The lodge features a snack bar, private rooms for corporate functions and birthday parties, lockers, restrooms, and a fireplace and warming area where non-tubers can relax. Best of all, the emphasis is the skiers and riders, and that attention to detail is what develops a winning reputation.

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