January 13, 2011
Burke: It's worth the trip
by Brion O'Connor/
There's usually plenty of natural snow (some 200 inches a year) at Burke. (photo: Burke)
Editor's note: This article originally appeared in the December 2010 issue of New England Ski Journal.
Like its broad-shouldered cousins to the East (Sugarloaf, Maine) and West (Jay Peak), Burke Mountain in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom isn’t the easiest mountain to get to. But that’s part of its appeal.
First of all, Burke is far enough away from the Big Apple to keep most faux skiers at bay. I don’t mind admitting my New England bias, having had more than my share of “New York moments” on the slopes. A major reason why I’ll happily add an extra hour or so to my drive is to get beyond Yankee fans. And, guaranteed, those from the Empire State who do make the extra effort to make the trek to Burke aren’t your typical “me first” New Yorkers.
Second, Burke reflects my bedrock belief that skiing, at its core, saves its greatest rewards for the bold, the self-sufficient, those who whine the least, who embrace winter and all its warts. And Old Man Winter can get pretty testy in the Northeast Kingdom. That’s a double-edged sword for Burke.
On the plus side, the people here tend to be more outgoing, more genuine; no-nonsense gems polished by windswept snows.
There’s also usually plenty of natural snow – average annual snowfall exceeds 200 inches – and the dedicated grooming crew at Burke does a commendable job of keeping it on the hill (thanks, in part, to a fleet that includes a Bombardier VR 400 Plus MP machine, an MP 300 European model, and a new Prinoth 350R Bison). The generous snowfall is supplemented by a state-of-the-art snowmaking system that covers more than 80 percent of Burke’s terrain, including 100 percent of the lower mountain, with man-made fluff.
Like Jay and Sugarloaf, the main roads (Routes 91 and 93 in Burke’s case) will get you most of the way there, but the final stretch to East Burke can be dicey if bad weather blows in. That keeps many of the crowds away from Burke, which is great for the skiers and boarders on the hill, but not all that beneficial for business. Again, it’s the trade-off of life in the Kingdom, and its made for some trying times at this classic ski area.
Similar to many medium size hills in New England, Burke Mountain has had its share of highs and lows over the years, barely staying afloat during lean snow years and rocky economic times. Home of the Burke Mountain Academy, one of the pre-eminent ski academies in New England (45 Olympians attended), the area has an impressive ski heritage, but that wasn’t enough to stave off bankruptcy in 2000. The academy ran the ski area for the next five years, before a private equity group purchased Burke in 2005.
The current ownership appears to have invested wisely, and the ski area is thankfully on solid footing coming into the current season. The academy is still an integral part of the area’s landscape, but there’s also an awareness that Burke’s ski-racing reputation alone won’t guarantee a rewarding ski experience. For that, you need terrain. Good terrain. Add uncrowded slopes, short lift lines, solid amenities, and a courteous, engaging staff, and you start hitting the right notes.
This is your reward for making the extra effort to come all the way to the Northeast Kingdom. As an added bonus, Burke’s trails today reflect a renewed attention to detail. You’ll find 45 trails and glade areas crisscrossing 250 acres of terrain. The 2,011 vertical feet figure is deceptive, as the runs from the 3,267-foot summit have some super pitch, and are probably steeper than you’d expect. Even the trail breakdown – 25 percent novice, 45 percent intermediate, and 30 percent advanced – is a little deceptive, due to what I call the “Northern Grading Curve.” Some family resorts to the south will artificially inflate trail ratings (Admit it, how many times have you heard some 5-year-old bragging during lunch how they’ve been ripping up double-diamonds all morning?). It seems the further you head north, the less pervasive that practice is.
As a result, you’re more likely to hear comments like “that was a pretty tough run for a blue” while you grab a sandwich at the Mid-Burke Lodge. The flipside, of course, is that if your quads are burning after ripping turns along “intermediate” trails such as East Bowl, Upper Dipper and Big Dipper, you can appreciate why. I’ve always been partial to the mountain’s eastern flank, which really shines when the natural snow builds up in the glades, such as Dixiland and Caveman. But, honestly, there’s no bad way off the top of Burke, especially early in the morning. Plus, take a moment before you set off for first track – the views of Willoughby Gap to the north are absolutely breathtaking (just in case you needed added incentive to set your clock for an early wake-up call).
There’s also plenty of terrain for youngsters, and beginners of every age. Burke’s segmented lay-out, with a distinct lower mountain dedicated to green trails running out to the Sherburne Base Lodge, ensures a safe environment for neophyte skiers and shredders. The lower mountain also includes the Dashney Mile Terrain Park, an entry-level playground. At the lodge you’ll find Kingdom Café, which is open seven days a week for breakfast and lunch, providing a nice respite for youngsters in need of a cup of hot chocolate. The lodge also is home to Burke’s Children Center and rental shops. However, Burke no longer offers daycare services. Instead, guests are referred to the Little Dipper Doodle Daycare in St. Johnsbury (802- 748-3226).
The mountain also boasts three other terrain parks above the Mid-Burke Lodge to ensure that freestyle skiers and boarders will be preoccupied for hours on end. The parks are well maintained, with a variety of hits, rails and boxes. The Open Slope is a great spot for Big Air and Rail Jam contests for spectators and participants alike, and will host the Mountain Dew Vertical Challenge on Jan. 16.
Overall, the resort claims a lift capacity of more than 4,700 skiers per hour, which might be a bit of a stretch (not that Burke has a monopoly on exaggeration in the ski industry). If there’s one consistent complaint with the area, it’s that the Willoughby Quad to the summit desperately needs to be replaced with a high-speed model. Still, the lines here are typically short, meaning you’ll get plenty of runs for your buck. Ticket prices, predictably, have been on the rise, but there are numerous discounts available to help reduce the sting of the top-dollar ($66) all-day adult holiday ticket.
New this season, Burke is offering two value cards. The Kingdom Sampler and the Ski Free Card are designed to introduce guests to the Northeast Kingdom while helping to save money on lift tickets. The $69 Kingdom Sampler Card includes one full-day lift ticket at Burke Mountain, one Burke Mountain campsite rental, one Vermont beer sampler flight or a Vermont root beer float at the Tamarack Grill, one summer Kingdom Trails day pass, one Nordic Kingdom Trails day pass, 10 percent off dining at the Tamarack Grill and 10 percent off lodging at the Carriage House Motel & Burke Mountain Campground, located on the Kingdom Trails.
The Ski Free Card, meanwhile offers discounted lift tickets all season and every fifth visit is free. The Ski Free Card also is good for a 10 percent discount on dining at the Tamarack Grill.
If You Go
WHERE TO STAY
The Wildflower Inn (wildflowerinn.com; 802-626-8310) is the quintessential New England bed & breakfast, catering to families. Come during the winter (the cross-country and snowshoe trail run right through the property), and you’ll want to visit again throughout the year. You don’t get much more convenient than the High Meadows Condominiums (802-626-4540), as these roomy units are situated slopeside. For additional slopeside options, contact Burke Mountain Rentals at 1-888-282-2188. The LynBurke Motel (lynburkemotel.com; 802-626-3346) in Lyndonville isn’t fancy, but its clean and convenient and even offers complimentary morning coffee and free WiFi if you need to bring work along. For a really special escape, consider the Stepping Stone Spa and Wellness Center (steppingstonespa.com; 866-626-3104), set near the Wildflower Inn in Lyndonville. Well-appointed rooms and soothing spa treatments are the perfect compliment to a day of skiing.
WHERE TO EAT
No visit to the Northeast Kingdom is complete without a visit to the Miss Lyndonville Diner (802-626-9274). The rib-sticking Yankee fare (not to be confused with Yankee fans) is as authentic as the good folk who live and work here, and you’re guaranteed not to leave hungry. A perfect way to fuel up for a day on the slopes. Recently re-energized under new ownership, the River Garden Café (rivergardencafe.com; 802-626-3514) on Main Street in East Burke raises “new culinary age” cuisine to an art form. Both the restaurant, and reservations, are highly recommended. Juniper’s at the Wildflower Inn (802-626-8310) features all natural beef, chicken, and pork, farm fresh ingredients, an extensive wine list including organic wines, and one of the area’s largest selections of Vermont-brewed beers. Willy’s Restaurant (willysrestaurant.net; 802-626-9900) features the eclectic creations of Chris and Karri Willy, who recently expanded their successful catering business and opened the doors to their own restaurant in East Burke. Menu choices range from schnitzel to seafood to wood-fired pizzas. The Tamarack Grill (802-626-7390) at Burke’s Sherburne Lodge is an American Bistro serving seasonal contemporary cuisine, accompanied by an extensive wine list and a large selection of Vermont microbrews on tap.
APRÈS SKI
The Sherburne Base Lodge is a triple-decker delight. The third floor boasts the Tamarack Grill, which has a lively bar with excellent food, live music, and views of Willoughby Gap. The Wicked Smart Horn Band will be making a special appearance at the lodge on Jan. 29, as part of the mountain’s “Season Pass Holder Appreciation” festivities. The Bear Den Lounge at the Mid-Burke Lodge is another favorite après ski watering hole. On Jan. 22, the lounge will host an après ski party with Harpoon Brewery.
MORE TO DO
Off mountain, Nordic skiers will find a veritable cornucopia of tracks managed by the Kingdom Trails Association (kingdomtrails.com). This 60-kilometer cross-country network will accommodate both skating and classic styles. On the weekend of Jan. 28-30, the ski area is going to the dogs, with the 5th annual Burke Mountain Sled Dog Dash on Kingdom Trails (sleddogdash.com). The event starts with a fund-raising auction and cocktail party hosted by the Wafer Family Foundation on Friday night at the Sherburne Lodge, followed by two days of racing. Children can participate in the 1-dog event (helmet required). Ice hounds may also want to detour to sample the some of the best winter climbing in the Northeast – the magnificent routes that form on the cliffs overlooking Willoughby Lake. Snowshoing also is available on the Kingdom Trails Association network (kingdomtrails.com) and elsewhere. The Kingdom also has riches aplenty for snowmobile enthusiasts, with direct access to VAST (Vermont Association of Snow Travelers) Trail No. 52. For details on the group, visit the VAST web site (vtvast.org).
GETTING IN TOUCH
Burke Mountain Ski Area, 223 Sherburne Lodge Road, East Burke, VT 05832
Toll free: 888-BURKE-VT; www.skiburke.com; info@skiburke.com
HOW TO GET THERE
Burke Mountain is roughly 200 miles from Boston. To get there from southern New England, take Interstate 91N to Exit 23. Take a right onto Rt 5 through Lyndonville for two miles. Bear right onto VT route 114 for four miles through East Burke Village and take a right onto Mountain Road one mile to the Sherburne Base Lodge entrance.
