December 22, 2011
Smugglers' balancing act
by Brion O'Connor/
Smugglers' Notch has developed a loyal following by offering a tremendous balance for families seeking a top ski vacation. (photo: Smugglers' Notch, Vermont)
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Balance. The ol’ yin and yang. It works in your love life, in financial matters, and in your work life. It also works in your family ski vacation, which is why Smugglers’ Notch in upstate Vermont has developed such a loyal following.
Smugglers’ Notch is not the perfect ski resort. Instead, like many ski areas, it has had to find a niche to stand out in a crowded New England ski landscape. And it’s done exactly that by striking a sublime balance between Old School atmosphere and New School amenities that makes it a top-flight destination for many skiers, and especially those with youngsters in tow. During a visit last year, we met families from Quebec and Ontario (with an almost insatiable desire to shop at TJ Maxx), as well as Virginia, New Jersey and Ohio. That’s a pretty impressive demographic, indicating that Smugglers’ Notch has to be doing something right. And it is.
The resort has made a huge commitment to the family ski experience, and for that fact alone, many other New England ski areas owe Smuggs, at the very least, a small debt of gratitude. That’s because Smugglers’ Notch does as much or more than almost anyone in the Northeast to make sure that everyone’s needs — from newborn to 90 — are met, which creates more lifetime skiers and boarders.
Family skiing, in fact, is what has put Smugglers’ Notch on the map. The resort backs up its claim of “America’s Family Resort” by doing a fantastic job of offering enough variety, from terrain to ski school options to après-ski entertainment, to keep any youngster 70 or younger not only occupied, but also happy.
Resort officials like to trumpet the fact that Ski magazine readers have named Smuggs No. 1 in “family programs” 12 times, and you can’t blame them. National recognition like that is not easy to come by. But more importantly, the resort never rests on its laurels. Programs are constantly being tweaked and improved, and visitors are the beneficiaries.
Almost any conversation regarding Smuggs has to start with the resort’s Snow Sport University. That sounds pretty high-falutin’, but it also conveys just how all-encompassing the ski instruction is here. One mom from Massachusetts even mentioned how the Smuggs staff “could not have been more accommodating” for her son who had a nut allergy. And every time my wife and I stopped by the lodges for a quick break, we found instructors and rosy-cheeked students milling about, laughing. Really, is there any better testimonial?
Treasures, the resort’s state-licensed daycare center, accepts little tykes as young as six weeks, and instruction begins with Little Rascals at age 2½. The brand-new Burton Riglet Park is designed specifically to introduce youngsters to the fine art of snowboarding. Parents also can opt for the Mom & Me and Dad & Me semi-private ski/snowboard lessons. Believe me, there are few things more fun for a kid than watching mom and/or dad struggling with a new sport. Indulge them.
For parents who prefer to follow the “separate but equal” doctrine, Smuggs offers a host of adult learning programs as well. Experienced skiers who are new to Smugglers’ will want to know about the Mountain Experience, a small-group program that features, essentially, a guided tour with instructors who are intimate with every nook and cranny of the resort, and are almost psychic in their ability to match skiers with the right slopes.
Of course, the best instruction in the world isn’t going to amount to a hill of beans if the terrain on the hill doesn’t hold up its end of the bargain. No worries at Smuggs. The resort’s three peaks — Morse Mountain (2,250 feet), Madonna Mountain (3,640 feet) and Sterling Mountain (3,040 feet) — offer a tremendous, and often underappreciated, variety of trails.
“Smugglers’ Notch, because of its family reputation, is often overlooked” when the conversation turns to expert terrain, says Vermonter Peter Oliver, former East Coast editor for Skiing magazine. “All the upper Madonna stuff — Freefall, Robin’s, Liftline, Black Hole — is nasty.”
Smugglers’ Alley, Bootlegger and Upper Exhibition off the top of Sterling aren’t too shabby either. The same can be said for the ever-expanding wooded options (750 acres at last count), which include the Highland Glades, Shakedown, Norwegian Woods, Doc Dempsey’s Glades, Bermuda (very clever!), and Moonshiner’s Glades. Sterling also is home to Smuggs’ Prohibition, Birch Run and The Zone terrain parks, for schralpers who need to get their ya-yas out.
The resort’s bread-and-butter terrain, however, is predominantly blue squares and green circles. That seemed to suit our clan just fine. After I banged out my quads with a handful of early morning runs on Oliver’s favorite trails, I was more than content to spend the afternoons with my daughters, carving big GS turns on Upper and Lower F.I.S., Upper and Lower Drifter, Upper and Lower Chilcoot, Link, and Goat Path.
Likewise, when my daughters — solid intermediate skiers — needed a break, they were happy to cruise over to Morse Mountain and take some easy runs on Garden Path, Snow Snake or Morse Mountain Liftline. That’s when we could drag them away from the seemingly never-ending party by the village base lodge area.
But, as mentioned before, there are some tradeoffs. Coming from Boston or Hartford or New York? Smugglers’ can be a bit of a haul, as there’s no direct route with Route 108 closed off between Stowe (which easily can be seen from the summit of Smuggs) and the resort during the winter months. As a result, expect to add another 45 minutes to the drive, as you wind up and around Mount Mansfield State Forest, through Morrisville and Johnson and Jeffersonville. (Our GPS — affectionately named “Susan” by our girls for her sultry voice — kept insisting we “turn around” once we motored north of Stowe; we eventually just turned “her” off).
Once you’re at the resort, you can park the car and forget it. I personally always have loved putting my car keys in a bowl on the kitchen counter, and just let them gather dust for three days. At Smuggs, that’s especially welcome, given how rough the resort access roads can be, particularly when the season rolls around to late winter and early spring. Our trusty Subaru is pretty rugged, but the suspension system got one heck of a workout navigating the pockmarked minefield of Smugg’s lower resort.
The condos themselves are, by and large, spacious, well-designed and well-appointed, with plenty of closet space for all your gear (it always amazes me how many resorts neglect this detail). The on-call shuttle service is a real treat, when it’s running on time. Unfortunately, that’s not always guaranteed. The drivers, though, were all courteous and knowledgeable.
Another benefit to being close to our neighbors to the north is the cool Euro-blare that so many French-speaking Quebec residents bring with them. My daughters noticed a much higher incidence of smoking, which they also attributed to our French-Canadian friends. Although I’m no fan of secondhand smoke, I have to admit I really enjoy any setting were English isn’t the sole language being spoken.
On the mountain, the snowmaking and grooming crews do a first-rate job getting the 78 trails in tip-top shape. The views from all three peaks are positively jaw-dropping, stretching all the way to the border on clear days (bring your camera, or smart phone!). And you’ll have plenty of room to roam at Smuggs. My wife and I took the girls on one of the busiest weekends of the year, coinciding with Quebec school vacation, and we never once felt crowded. Not on the slopes, and not in the lift lines.
The benefit of wide-open spaces can’t be overstated, because one of the biggest obstacles for newer skiers is the intimidation factor — not of the hill, but of other skiers. At Smugglers’, neophytes and experts alike will have every opportunity to stretch their legs and their limits.
Part of the reason for that unencumbered sense of space, however, is a notable absence of high-speed lifts, of any kind. The resort lifts are comfortable, and staffed by friendly operators who went out of their way to make our daughters feel right at home. That alone endeared Smuggs to me in ways that can’t be measured, unless you can quantify the value of a young girl’s smiles (which, if my experience is any guide, you can’t). But the lifts themselves are S-L-O-W.
OK, we’re spoiled. I admit it. But let’s face the cold, hard truth; in this day-and-age, a traditional lift can seem painfully slow compared to more modern detachable quads. Time on the lift can make or break a ski experience for youngsters. Morse Mountain is relatively protected from the elements, but the lifts to the top of Madonna and Sterling can be exasperating if Old Man Winter doesn’t cooperate.
This is nothing new for Old Schoolers like me. I grew up on lifts far slower, and more temperamental, than those found at Smugglers’. But for beginners, and kids, it can be tough. Be prepared, dressing in lots of layers, and make absolutely sure to bring a good facemask or balaclava. Skiing and boarding are still winter sports, and part of the challenge, and fun, is dealing with whatever frosty curveballs Mother Nature throws your way.
Just remember, if you’ve got to traverse from the base of Madonna to the resort village at Morse, it’s a long haul. That’s doubly true for young legs that are already tired, or for snowboarders who have to travel all 6,200 feet heel-side. That can be painful. You’ll want to hit that trailhead with a head of steam, or jump aboard the shuttle.
Conversely, the base lodges at Smuggs, and especially the Sterling facility, offer a warm and welcome respite from the cold and a sometimes biting wind. And the prices won’t break the bank, which was a real pleasant surprise.
In fact, all of the package rates at Smuggs, which are almost too numerous to count, are attractive (the resort’s website does an excellent job detailing every one). That helps keep your checkbook balanced. It’s clear that the resort wants you, and your family, to come back. Chances are, after your first visit or your 40th, you’ll share that sentiment. Which strikes a nice balance for everyone.
Smugglers’ Notch Resort
4323 Vermont Route 108 South
Smugglers’ Notch, VT 05464
1-802-644-8851
www.smuggs.com
What else to do
Skiing and snowboarding is only the start of the fun at Smugglers’ Notch. For a little diversion, and a spine-tingling thrill that rivals most black diamonds, the resort also offers zipline tours through Arbor Trek Canopy Adventures (arbortrek.com). Prefer to keep your feet on terra firma? Check out The Nordic Ski & Snowshoe Adventure Center, with 30 kilometers of cross-country trails and 24 kilometers of dedicated snowshoe terrain. There’s also an ice skating rink next door. Or for something really out of the ordinary, consider Eden Dog Sledding (802-635-9070). From 5-8 p.m., you can go snow tubing under the lights on Sir Henry’s Hill beside the village.
Après ski, the Courtside Pool & Hot Tubs are the perfect antidote for sore and tired muscles (mom and dad) or excess energy (the kiddos). If the kids still aren’t tired after a good soak, or if water simply isn’t their thing, visit the FunZone Family Entertainment & Recreation Center next door, featuring a bounce house, board games, mini-golf, and an inflatable slide. For those middle and high schoolers who are too cool to hang with mom and dad, they’ll want to explore the attached Outer Limits Teen Center or Teen Alley Teen Center at the resort village.
Dining
The convenience of on-mountain comes at a premium. Expect to pay top dollar for fine dining at The Hearth and Candle (a much better fit for a parents’ night out; the resort offers reasonably priced babysitting services). A more affordable family option, for my coin, is the Morse Mountain Grille & Pub, or even Riga-Bello’s Pizzeria (a terrific alternative, particularly if you prefer in-condo dining). The girls, of course, could not pass on the Ben & Jerry’s Scoop Shop.
Across the street from the resort’s base lodge is Stella Notte Restaurant and Lounge (stellanotte.com). Though the house specialty is Italian, I’m also a fan of the Gringo Grub/Mexican menu. Want a great local hangout? Check out The Brewski down the road to rub elbows with the snow crew and ski instructors (the best way to find out the prime runs for the next morning).
This article originally appeared in the December 2011 issue of New England Ski Journal.
Brion O’Connor can be reached at feedback@skijournal.com
