January 25, 2012
Loony for Loon
An experienced ski writer offers his firsthand advice on taking advantage of the New Hampshire resort
by Brion O'Connor/
Getting an early start at Loon Mountain Resort is key, and Walking Boss is ideal for thigh-burning wake-up runs. (photo: Loon Mountain Resort)
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My wife will tell you that my wacky Celtic sense of humor tends to drift a bit off center. “Loony,” she’ll say. Which probably helps explain my affinity for Loon Mountain in Lincoln, N.H.
Well into my fifth decade on the slopes, I’ve morphed from ski bum to ski yuppie to the family ski guy. And at each stage along my progression, Loon has offered a first-rate winter experience, whether I’ve been on skis or snowboard, whether single or with kids in tow.
First of all, from the “some things never change” file, I’ve always appreciated the straight shot that Interstate 93 provides from Boston to Lincoln, N.H., and the White Mountains. This sweet stretch of asphalt running right up the Granite State’s spine to the Kancamagus Highway is sometimes crowded — don’t even think of going up late on a Friday afternoon without adding at least another hour or more to your arrival time — but always in decent shape (a grateful shoutout to New Hampshire DPW crews).
If I can’t get on the road before 3 o’clock on Friday, I’ll opt for zooming up at the crack of dawn — or before — on Saturday morning. From my home on Boston’s North Shore, to the main parking lot at Loon (with at least one coffee/bathroom break), is roughly 2½ hours. That’s pretty darn quick, in my book. If we arrive by 7:30, we even get a great spot in the Loon parking lot, which normally is overflowing by 9. We also can be first in line in the rental shop if the girls want to try something different, such as snowboards.
As for the mountain itself, I try to take the same approach as the drive: Early is better. The tough part is deciding where to start, with 61 trails spread over 370 acres (27 miles of slopes), including seven dedicated tree-skiing areas. The vertical (2,100 feet) isn’t intimidating, but the trail layout — with 20 percent novice, 20 percent expert and 60 percent intermediate — makes the most of the available terrain.
My siblings and I always have been dedicated members of the Bamboo for Breakfast Club, which means we’ll suffer the wrath of surly kids and crack-of-dawn cobwebs in order to make first tracks (a coffeemaker with an auto-timer can be your best friend here). At Loon, that means a beeline to the gondola, and then hopping onto Angel Street to the North Peak Quad. Much has been made of Loon’s relatively new South Peak (more on that later), but for my money, the resort’s 3,050-foot North Peak still rules, especially when the snow is good. And it doesn’t get any better than early morning. Trust me — the rug rats will stop whining once they step off the lifts.
After banging out a few thigh-burning wake-up runs on Walking Boss and Flume, we’ll head into the Camp III Lodge for breakfast while everyone else is just snapping in. Families with younger skiers can scoot around the steep stuff by accessing Haulback via Sunset, getting to Camp III by skiing a large “Z” across North Peak. This is as good a place as any to point out Loon’s under-appreciated snowmaking and grooming efforts. The steep pitch of these trails, combined with the well-known vagaries of New England weather, presents a daunting task for the Loon snow crew, and for the most part, they’re up to it. Snow coverage is typically wall-to-wall, and the base is packed down evenly. Yes, these upper trails are the first on the mountain to get skied off, but that’s why you need to get there early.
After refueling (the lodge food at Loon, like many Northeast ski areas, has undergone a tremendous improvement over the past 12 years), if the cover is still good, we might grab another run on North Peak, or take the East Basin chair to make some turns on Big Dipper. Then, depending on the crowds, we’ll head to either West Basin or South Peak.
The lift lines at Loon are as unpredictable as New England weather, though the odds favor a long wait on weekends. Loon once attempted to limit ticket sales to ease overcrowding, which was admirable, but season passes have made that practice unwieldy. Plus, as a skier once memorably quipped while standing in line, “What’s the limit? 50,000?” South Peak, fortunately, has remedied much of the congestion, and the mountain boasts the ability to move more than 15,000 people up the mountain each hour.
The cross-mountain Tote Road Quad to South Peak, to be diplomatic, is a necessary evil, because you can’t ski between the two areas. But it’s slow. Really slow. So make sure you take full advantage of your time at South Peak (in other words, don’t plan on jumping back and forth often). South Peak, though, has its advantages. In a weird way, it seems many Loon skiers still don’t know about it, even though it was the subject of contentious litigation for the better part of two (or more) decades. It has some fun cruising runs, and when conditions are right, one of the best double black diamonds — Ripsaw — in New England.
Cruiser and Boom Run are marked intermediate, but in all honesty are gentle enough for most beginners. These are perfect family slopes, with a much different feel and atmosphere compared to “old” Loon. First, due to location and layout, they’re a lot less crowded, which means the lines for the Lincoln Express Quad are shorter. Second, the views of Franconia Ridge and Lincoln are stunning, giving skiers the sensation that they’re sliding right into town. Third, the parking lot at South Peak is another undiscovered gem, allowing folks to get on the mountain quickly (all the lifts open at the same time) without the hassle that the main parking lot can produce.
Upping the ante on South Peak is the challenging terrain you’ll find on the Uppercut glade area and Ripsaw, simply one of the best runs to come along in a long time. As one Loon veteran told me, Ripsaw, after a good powder dump, is “an awesome trail. It bumps up nicely, and is steep for a long time. It’s truly like a double black out West.” High praise indeed.
The resort also introduced four new trails this year: Upper and Lower Twitcher and Jobber, which are expert trails on South Peak; and Dropline, a novice trail and the new home of Loon’s Burton Progression Park. Other changes include NASTAR moving from the former Race City trail to a new location on South Peak’s Lower Twitcher trail, and Missing Link Park, the natural park that opened last winter, moves next to the new Dropline trail.
Plus, families with members of varying abilities all can ski South Peak, comfortable in knowing that all the trails converge at the Pemigewasset Base Camp (provided you don’t take Escape Route off Boom Run, which bypasses the lodge and heads directly to the parking lot). This base camp features one of those cool permanent tent structures, which offers all the amenities of its brick-and-mortar counterparts, and is a great spot to enjoy an outdoor snack or après ski beer on milder days.
The latter part of the day is reserved for the middle mountain, which tends to hold its snow quite well and can be a lot of fun when the crowds (and lift lines) thin. I’ve always loved the West Basin runs serviced by the Kangamagus Express Quad, especially Rumrunner, Ram Pasture and Blue Ox. They all have enough pitch to generate a nice tailwind, which leads to some sweet, sweeping GS turns (the perfect antidote for legs already teetering on lactic acid overload).
Freestylers also can access the Loon Mountain Park from the Kanc Quad, as well as the Gondola and pokey Seven Brothers chair. Though my airborne days are behind me — my jumps nowadays rarely are premeditated — my muscles still twitch at the sight of these giant ramps, rails and half-pipes (the resort’s Superpipe is 450 feet long, with 18-foot walls), and I love watching the youngsters who can still go big. It’s no surprise that TransWorld Snowboarding magazine consistently rates Loon the top terrain park in the East.
If we’re parked close to the resort’s main Octagon Lodge, we’ll try to finish the day with a few carving runs underneath the gondola on Picaroon or Seven Brothers. Late day, like early morning, is probably the best time to jump aboard the gondola, which is still one of the nicest lifts in New England. Just make sure the little ones still have enough left in the tank for that last top-to-bottom run.
Another prime benefit at Loon is the resort’s commitment to safety, both with superb signage and “Family Zones,” and with a top-notch ski patrol. Skiers and boarders have the added security of knowing that the First Aid services feature orthopedic doctors on the hill. In the interest of full disclosure, I should reveal that my brother, Dr. Sean O’Connor, is one of those Loon docs. When I was young and carefree (i.e. single), the biggest benefit was being able to ski with Sean without having to wait in the lift lines. These days, however, as a 54-year-old with a beautiful wife and a pair of ’tweener daughters, I think of this added benefit much differently. It means peace of mind.
Fortunately for me, and the ladies in my house, we’ve never had cause to visit the Loon First Aid station for anything more serious than a few aspirin (still the best après ski relief) and a peanut butter and jelly sandwich with my brother’s clan. Speaking of families, though, my daughters, Brynne and Maddi, always have enjoyed the camps and lessons at Loon, and that’s a real testament to a caring and qualified staff. We don’t do private lessons, and at Loon we can be sure that the girls will be placed with skiers of similar abilities. Again, that’s reassuring, and allows my bride, Lauri, and me to ski stress-free.
Last, my advanced age has given me carte blanche to explore another wonderful slopeside amenity at Loon — the new Viaggio Spa at the Mountain Club. I always try to make the après ski pilgrimage to my favorite watering holes (see sidebar), but the spa helps put my body right. Which means I can get up the next morning, really early, and do it all over again.
Loon Mountain Resort
60 Loon Mountain Road,
Lincoln, N.H. 03251
1-800-229-LOON (5666)
or 603-745-8111
www.loonmtn.com
Where to stay
Loon and Lincoln are condo heaven. Too many were built in the boom times of the 1980s, when South Peak was first proposed, and there are still plenty available for skiers looking to stay for a few days, from the Nordic Inn Resort (nordic-inn.com; 1-866-734-2164) to The Lodge at Lincoln Station (lodgeresort.com; 1-800-654-6188). Shop around for the best deal.
The Mountain Club at Loon (mtnclub.com; 1-800-229-7829) is the ideal slopeside option, with spa, health club, indoor/outdoor pools and terrific restaurants. Park the car (in a garage, no less), and forget it for a few days.
For something a little cozier, and farther from the crowds, try the Wilderness Inn (wildernessinn.com; 1-888-777-7813) in North Woodstock, or the Franconia Inn (franconiainn.com; 1-800-473-5299) to the north in Franconia.
Where to eat
The Common Man in Lincoln is, simply, uncommon. The food is really good, the portions are large, the brews are plentiful, and the atmosphere is warm and friendly.
Ditto for the Woodstock Station in nearby Woodstock. It’s a bit farther away, but you’ll find a dizzying menu, mouth-watering local beers, and you’ll save a few bucks, too.
The Gypsy Café in Lincoln is a quaint little bistro that offers an eclectic menu to placate even the most demanding palette, with entrees ranging from Thai curried duck to shrimp fajitas to carmelized tofu.
Après ski
The beer crowd still collects at the Paul Bunyon Room, and it’s still a favorite of this old- school skier/boarder. Located in the Octagon Lodge, it’s also convenient.
Equally accessible (there’s that word again), Babe’s Blue Ox Lounge in the Governor Adams Lodge, at the opposite side of the main parking lot, draws more of a cocktail crowd (though you can still get beer there).
The Black Diamond Bar & Grille at the Mountain Club is a bit more upscale but a very comfy alternative once the sun drops.
What else to do
We’ve already mentioned the spa, right? You also can enjoy ice skating and indoor rock climbing at Loon’s Adventure Center by the main parking lot. And, yes, skate rentals are available.
Another great way to slide on snow is tubing, and Loon offers lift-served tubing day and night on the resort’s Little Sister run for anyone age 8 and older.
Care to shop ’til you drop? Lincoln is home to a number of great outlets, including my longtime discount fave, Lahout’s.
This article originally appeared in the January 2012 issue of New England Ski Journal.
Brion O’Connor can be reached at feedback@skijournal.com
