Find fall tranquility — and a new hotel — this season at Lake Sunapee

Mount Sunapee boasts five miles of mountain biking trails. (Mount Sunapee Photo)

NEWBURY, N.H. — The mellow single-track trail abruptly dropped from below this mountain biking novice as I entered a wooded section, switchbacking repeatedly with smooth, chest-high berms aiding to keep me from flying over the back side of the lip and into the unknown. I couldn’t help but smile as my burgeoning confidence grew, eventually feeling the flow of the trail, slightly reminiscent of riding my snowboard down a mellow New England glade run.

“I can definitely see why everyone loves mountain biking,” I thought to myself as I loaded my bike onto Mount Sunapee’s chairlift for a fifth consecutive time.

As a local to the Mount Washington Valley who spends his winters snowboarding and summers fishing and rock climbing, a journey to the southern part of New Hampshire is rare — especially when it doesn’t involve the sports I’m accustomed to. Located in Newbury, overlooking Lake Sunapee, Mount Sunapee’s summit elevation of 2,743 feet, along with 233 skiable acres and its presence on Vail Resorts’ popular Epic Pass, make it a great skiing and riding destination. 

But with fall quickly approaching, my sights were set on “off” season activities.

My first stop was the mountain bike rental shop, where I was quickly given a downhill-specific bike to explore Sunapee’s five miles of trails. Difficulty varied, from mellow, smooth, single-track trails that meander across ski runs and through the trees, to trails with winding berms, jump lines, and sections of technical descents. As a beginner, there was plenty to get warmed up on, but the progression of trails never left me with a shortage of lines to challenge myself on.

Despite it being a weekend, lift lines were non-existent, and I didn’t have to worry about holding anyone up on the trails. In fact, the quiet mountain proved to be the perfect place to slowly ramp up my skills without feeling the pressure of having other riders around.

After having my fill of biking, I headed over to check in at the Bluebird Sunapee by Lark Hotels, a recently renovated 53-room motel-turned-hotel. In the main lobby, granite tile floors are accented by a wood panel interior, with wooden oars, deer antlers, mounted trout, and indigenous artifacts scattered throughout, creating a rustic mountain feel that simultaneously pays tribute to the region’s indigenous history and modern culture. Bluebird by Lark also has other properties in locations such as Lake Placid (Bluebird Lake Placid), Cape Cod (Bluebird Parker Beach Lodge in Yarmouth and Bluebird Dennisport), and Stowe (Tälta Lodge). 

Inspired by the idea of the American road trip, Lark’s Bluebird properties offer “the warm welcome and carefully chosen amenities guests have come to expect from us, with a more relaxed, free-spirited attitude.” In many cases, Lark has been able to capture the spirit in older motels, chalets, and lodges and has re-purposed them for a modern audience. Lark hopes to capture the imagination of a new generation of road-trippers, giving them adequate, affordable accommodations along their way. 

Outdoor ski lockers and bike racks are positioned to keep your gear safe and ready to go while you relax in the guest lounge next to the wood-burning fireplace. There’s a game room for the younger set and an indoor pool to look forward to after a day conquering the bump lines on Sunapee’s Upper Flying Goose. 

The hotel is located only minutes from the mountain — the closest hotel available — and within a few minutes drive of multiple restaurants, lakes, hiking trails, and Pillsbury State Park, where I had my sights set on some kayaking. 

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After checking in to the hotel and recuperating from my downhill biking experience, I hopped in the car and headed toward Pillsbury for some outdoor relaxation time. Often overshadowed by some of the state’s more popular destinations like the Mount Washington State Park and the Mount Washington Valley in general, Pillsbury State Park proved to be a quiet way to free myself from the weekend crowds I’ve become accustomed to through summer, embarking on a leisurely paddle across a pond before landing on the perfect island for reading.

Minutes turned into hours as I relaxed on my own private island, feeling a cool breeze as I read. After what seemed like 10 minutes, but in reality was a few hours, it came time to pack up and paddle back to return my kayak, heading back towards the hotel and dinner.

As I drove toward Bubba’s Bar and Grille in Newbury Harbor, less than a five-minute drive from the hotel, it dawned on me that eating lunch had slipped my mind. My hunger was amplified as I walked through the door, with a bustling bar area and dining room tables filled with patrons feasting on burgers, chowder and baked salmon.

I took the one remaining stool at the bar, admiring views of Lake Sunapee through the window as I sipped on a cocktail, waiting for my burger. The restaurant had a fairly traditional New England feel, serving a variety of seafood dishes, chicken sandwiches, burgers, and pizza, with an inviting and relaxing atmosphere at the bar.

After dinner, I headed back to Bluebird Sunapee to get some rest before having to drive back north in the morning. The hotel offers king and queen-sized bedrooms as well as rooms with two double beds, ideal for families and groups.

Being such a limited trip, there were a number of things I was unable to do, leaving me a reason to return. In addition to mountain biking and paddling, the hotel’s location allows for plenty of things to choose from without having to spend more than a few minutes in the car.

John Hay Estate at the Fells is a historic summer estate on the banks of Lake Sunapee, dating back to the early 20th century. Not only are tours of the home offered, but it also boasts an extensive network of hiking trails and gardens. Visitors can walk amongst the 83 acres of woodlands and along a half-mile of undeveloped shoreline on the lake — a rarity on many of New Hampshire’s heavily developed lakes.

Just up the road is Rollins State Park, which features a 3 1/2-mile scenic road to a picnic area with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and even the Boston skyline. From there, the summit of Mount Kearsarge can be reached via a half-mile trail, making it an easily accessible viewpoint for those who want to get away from the parking area.

While I didn’t get the opportunity to explore everything the Mount Sunapee region has to offer, the allure of a lesser-visited part of the state has instilled inspiration to get out and experience these destinations that often go overlooked.