Okemo offers something for everyone, even if you’re not skiing

Okemo features 121 trails and some of the most classic terrain in New England. (Max Grudzinski/Okemo Mountain Resort)

It’s the “Oh my Gosh” corner at Sugarloaf that gets all the — rightful — accolades for boasting the most-impressive approach to a ski area in New England. Indeed, it’s a view that’s earned after what seems like an endless drive through Maine, navigating winding roads that lead motorists through small town after small town, until it eventually drops you in the face of Sugarloaf. The resort’s 4,237-foot summit comes into view suddenly and dramatically, a sight that prompts everybody in the car to, of course, exclaim, “Oh my Gosh,” or at least something similar to that nature. 

But the most underrated approaching viewpoint to a ski area in this region might just be at Okemo Mountain Resort, a ski area that hovers over the lively Vermont town of Ludlow. The 3,334-foot summit might not be as commanding as visitors discover at Sugarloaf, but the very sight of the mountain, looming over Ludlow, immediately gets skiers amped. It’s like peering at a blank canvas awaiting your brushes. 

Depending upon how you’ve come to know Okemo over the years, you might expect something different than what you’re about to experience. Okemo, located in south-central Vermont, is consistently ranked as one of the best family skiing destinations in the Northeast, a tag that might lead some to nickname it “Slowkemo.” The reality is that the resort’s terrain is spread out evenly over its 632 acres of skiable terrain. While 69 percent of the terrain is classified as “easy” or “intermediate,” Okemo can do gnarly as well. About 31 percent of the resort’s 121 trails are classified as “advanced” or “expert.” 

In other words, don’t let one particular reputation define the place for you. 

“Yes, it caters to families just because of the nature of what’s there,” Okemo spokesperson Courtney DiFiore said. “But it’s still very much enjoyable if you don’t have a family. You can go there and have fun on all these different terrain types, spread yourself out and have it feel like you have your own mountain, and then go have a cold one down at the lodge or go into town.” 

That’s what helps complete Okemo to make it one of the better experiences skiers and riders can have in Vermont. The town of Ludlow provides the perfect complement to the resort that dominates its skyline. 

“What I don’t think people consider enough is that the town of Ludlow is just a great community,” DiFiore said. “Okemo and Ludlow really benefit off each other. The community is very much involved trying to create a good experience for everybody who visits.” 

Yet, as a property of Vail Resorts, Okemo does, naturally, have its critics. The resort dropped nine spots in the annual Ski Magazine Reader Resort Survey this fall, a plummet “due to staffing issues and crowding that caused full parking lots and long lift lines.” 

The issues with the affordable Epic Pass creating long lift lines at Vail properties across North America isn’t exactly a unique development, but you do tend to hear fewer complaints about the situation at Okemo than you might at sister resorts like Stowe (instituting a parking fee this season to help control traffic jams on Mountain Road) or Attitash (where staffing issues led to clogged queues and terrain that was paid little attention all winter). Okemo’s vice president and general manager Bruce Schmidt has been with the mountain (except for a one-year stint as the VP and GM at Mount Sunapee) since 1987, giving Vail Resorts a steady presence that they have been willing to shake up at other resorts. Whereas Vail has been criticized elsewhere for creating a generic experience no matter the character of the mountain, it’s a knock that Okemo seems to escape. Most of the time. 

To its credit, Vail is attempting to fix the problems this season. Earlier this year, company CEO Kirsten Lynch announced a starting wage of $20 per hour at all 37 of Vail’s North American resorts. Vermont’s WCAX did the math, and determined that the raise meant a $5 per hour increase at Stowe, Okemo, Mount Snow and Hunter, and a $7 per hour increase at Attitash, Crotched, Sunapee and Wildcat. In April, Vail announced that it had purchased property in Ludlow earmarked to provide more than 30 employees with affordable housing. The $1 million investment is located only a mile from the resort.

Those are steps toward creating a more attractive work environment, which goes a long way toward satisfying the customer. And yes, that means customers that want to find challenging terrain, even at one of the most family-friendly resorts in New England. 

As Ski Magazine wrote in this year’s survey guide, “Behind the family-friendly image lies the rest of the mountain: glades, classic narrow Eastern runs, and adventurous terrain that reveals a whole different face. In a good way.” 

Agreed. Except Okemo does it in a <I>great</I> way. 

Return to normal 

It has been almost three years since my last visit to Okemo, a stretch of time that has seemed to age in dog years. 

As a matter of fact, one of the more defining runs of my last decade if skiing took place over that same weekend in March, 2020. I spent the morning with my children making laps on Tuckered Out and Lower Limelight on the Jackson Gore side of the resort. We tackled the World Cup trail on the clock tower side of the resort, and by 3:30, when younger muscles began to jello, their father was off on his own. 

The clock was ticking by the time I made it back over to Jackson Gore and the Green Ridge Triple lift, which has since been replaced by a new six-person lift, increasing uphill capacity to nearly 3,000 riders per hour. Below lay the challenge of Quantum Leap, Okemo’s signature bump run. Once I reached the top, I immediately pushed off, hopeful to beat the clock and the 4 p.m. lift closure. I had about four or five minutes depending on the liftie’s watch. 

I booked that run, carving, twisting, and dipping as fast as I could (I’m 48, so you imagine) and had what was my favorite run of the season. At the time, I didn’t think I would remember it for the rest of my life, but it was still an awesome dash. And I still had time for one more. 

But I didn’t. It was 4:01 p.m. by the time I reached the bottom of the trail. Last call had passed. 

My family would be at dinner some hours later when I received the email. Vail would be closing all its resorts immediately due to a virus that was rearing its ugliness on all of us. Some had already shut down. Most resorts would follow. Ski season was, effectively, over. In mid-March. 

There have been dozens of runs since then, but that will remain etched in my memory; that fantastic run on Quantum Leap that both ended and defined my season. 

For the first season since then, Okemo will be completely back to normal, bringing back a full calendar of events and other attractions this winter. The mountain coaster, the tubing hill, and the ice skating rink will all be available. The Tap House, located at the Jackson Gore base area, will re-open this winter as will the Robin’s Roost restaurant at the summit. Shuttles between the resort and downtown Ludlow are returning. 

“Everything that you came to expect a few years ago prior to the pandemic, that’s what you’re going to walk back into this season,” DiFiore said. 

It’s good to see Okemo head into the 2022-23 season fully operational. 

Now, about the snow…

Best in Snow 

Last season, Okemo’s capital focus was on lifts with the addition of a six-person detachable chair and the Quantum Four, which replaced the Green Ridge Triple. This summer, its focus was on snowmaking, making significant investment in a system that already covers 98 percent of its terrain. Snowmaking improvements included 33 new low-energy snow guns and snowmaking pipe added to Upper Timberline. “Which is going to be really helpful in the way people can navigate the mountain,” DiFiore said. “It just helps the flow so that when people get on the mountain they will have a better guest experience. The low-energy guns are a benefit as well because we have a commitment to sustainability.

“Investing in snowmaking is important because if we don’t get the natural stuff, we know that we can rely on the equipment that we have and our team’s experience. So long as the weather is cold enough, we don’t need natural snow if it’s not going to fall. We can’t force it, but what we can do is turn on the snow guns and make it where we need to and still have everyone have the opportunity to have fun on the mountain.” 

Thus, if it’s a temperate season like last, Okemo should still be in good shape as long as winter brings a chill to make snow. 

Even without snow though (I know…) Ludlow alone is worth the trip (for some of the best pancakes you’ll ever eat, be sure to visit the Hatchery). 

“You can go to the mountain, have a great time there and then explore the local community as well,” DiFiore said. “Support them by going to their restaurants and live music and things like that to really round out your experience.”

It may not be “Oh, my Gosh” for everyone, but Okemo still gleams in a landscape of hurdles. 

Eric Wilbur can be reached at [email protected].